Elevating Comfort Food: Chef Elizondo’s Unique Flavors

During the summer months, LEAP students are a far-flung bunch, with students across the state of Texas–and beyond. But, when possible, we get together for education, conversation, and, of course, food!

At the right restaurant, food can also be a learning opportunity, and that was certainly the case when we visited Cochinita & Co, led by Chef Victoria Elizondo. Indeed, we were fortunate to visit when Chef Elizondo was there, and she graciously spent a generous amount of time with us.

Chef Elizondo specializes in Mexican “comfort food,” but it’s a misleading appellation. The food is made with quality ingredients, technical skill, and a commitment to tradition, with more presentation than would be expected at a typical comfort food restaurant.

Perhaps that is why she has twice been nominated by the James Beard Foundation as the top Chef in Texas–a huge honor. It was, she told us, a surprise. Ten years ago, she was working as a pop-up chef, and then a food-truck chef. So, even when she had a storefront and had published her book, “Taco-Tastic”…

…she was not prepared for the texts coming in telling her she had been nominated. It wasn’t, she noted, on her radar.

The quality of her food, however, makes it clear why she was on the James Beard Foundation’s radar. Knowing her reputation and responding positively to the restaurant’s excellent service, we tried a broad variety of food. We began with the Guacamole and Chips (savory, with a little kick, and “addictive”)…

…and the Elote. The latter had less of the cream often used in restaurants, but it had more flavor, and it was a table favorite.

Among the eight of us, we had five different entrees: Shrimp Tacos (very good, a chef’s recommendation)…

…Black Bean Tamales (“the most tender masa I’ve had,” noted Mikaela)…

…Cochinita Pibil (Michelle and Mike’s vote for best entree on the table)…

…Chicken Adobo Bowl, the El Arcoiris bowl, and the Pineapple Shrimp Bowl.

For dessert, we had a cookie (large!) and Tres Leches, the latter being another immensely rewarding standout.

It was a pleasure to sample Chef Elizondo’s concoctions, which combined the traditional and the creative. It was an even greater pleasure to meet and speak with her, to hear about her story, and to see–and taste–the love and passion she puts into each dish.

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Author: mikeyawn

Mike Yawn teaches at Sam Houston State University. In the past few years, he has taught courses on Politics & Film, Public Policy, the Presidency, Media & Politics, Congress, Statistics, Research & Writing, Field Research, and Public Opinion. He has published academic papers in the Journal of Politics, Political Behavior, Social Security Quarterly, Film & History, American Politics Review, and contributed a chapter to the textbook Politics and Film. He also contributes columns, news analysis, and news stories to newspapers such as the Houston Chronicle, San Antonio Express News, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, Stamford Advocate, Greenwich Time, Huron Daily Tribune, Laredo Morning Times, Beaumont Enterprise, Connecticut Post, and Midland Reporter Telegram. Yawn is also active in his local community, serving on the board of directors of the local YMCA and Friends of the Wynne. Previously, he served on the Huntsville's Promise and Stan Musial World Series Boards of Directors. In 2007-2008, Yawn was one of eight scholars across the nation named as a Carnegie Civic Engagement Scholar by the Carnegie Foundation.

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