From Sullivan’s Island to West Virginia

Based on the weather in the morning…

…we did not expect a full day of outdoor activities.

But with a little help from the weather, and with some weather forbearance on our part, we were able to partake in a full day, which would include a morning of kayaking (see here), an afternoon of exploring Sullivan’s Island, and an evening mixer with legislators, lobbyists, and legislative staff. Quite a day for college students!

Fort Moultrie

We arrived at Sullivan’s Island ready to explore, despite some rain, and we learned that the name of the island comes from Florence O’Sullivan, who was among the first European to settle and did much to develop the colony of South Carolina in the 17th century.

We began by visiting the “Edgar Allan Poe” library, fittingly named not only because it is a library, but also because Poe lived on this island when stationed at Fort Moultrie. It’s even possible Poe stepped foot in the structure that now houses a library; it was a garrison long before it was a library.

Interestingly, Poe wrote “The Gold Bug” here, and he used the island setting in the short story.

Poe was stationed at Fort Moultrie, which played a key role in the American Revolutionary War.

Entering the Fort’s visitor center, we were able to browse the varying artifacts that were preserved from the days the fort was active, such as a 300-pound cannonball, manillas (a form of currency to purchase slaves), and an actual map with the route of the slave trade.

The original fort on this site was defended by South Carolina colonist Col. William Moultrie–for whom the fort is named–and was made of Palmetto wood. When the British attacked, the fort, and Moultrie’s men, withstood the bombardment. Moultrie became a hero, and the Palmetto became the State Tree of South Carolina.

We took the time to go through the many structures by the fort, making sure to get up close to some rare cannons from the Civil War lining the exterior. The cannons included several Rodmans, Brooke Rifles, Parrott Rifles, and Columbiads, reflecting the technological innovation that occurred over the years in battle.

There was also a Sally port, which was a highlight for the group. The bomb-proof structure was used to store gunpowder, keeping their supply dry and ready for use. Morgan, in particular, couldn’t fathom how soldiers could run back and forth through the narrow passageways in a battle.

In one of the structures, we discovered a small “passageway” where soldiers or those based in the fort could receive mail – magazines. Jessica and I decided to test this out by having me hand her an umbrella.

The visit to Fort Moultrie was captivating, educational, and exciting to see! And, perhaps best of all, it was on the beach, allowing us a quick transition to some senseless fun!

Sullivan’s Island Beach

The beach offers not only fun in the sun (or clouds), but also a nice view of The Arthur Ravenel, Jr. Bridge.

For most of us, this was only the second beach we had really been to (Galveston was our common experience), and we were able to swim, share stories, laugh, and even engage in some competitive behavior.

Even after a couple of hours spent at the beach we could have stayed longer, but we needed to eat and get back for our evening with at the Southern Legislative Conference.

Mex 1 Coastal Cantina

Feeling a bit exhausted and famished after a long day of outdoor activities, we searched for a place where we could enjoy a nice meal that would satisfy our craving for Mexican food. Sullivan’s Island had the perfect restaurant a couple of blocks away from the beach: Mex 1 Coastal Cantina

We were greeted by a welcoming staff and presented with traditional tortilla chips and tomato salsa, not long after we were seated. Our entrees included Street Taco Platters: Carne Asada Tacos with Roasted Corn and a mixed plate with a Carne Asada and Pork with Pineapple taco, Chicken Quesadillas, Braised Chicken Baja Bowl, and the Mexi-Cali Burrito. This restaurant’s menu included some of the traditional Mexican delicacies, but it also had many unique entrees that were inspired by different cultures. An example of this would be the Mexi-Cali Burrito, a twist on a Mexican burrito with the addition of French Fries and queso on top. 

The food was savory – full of flavor – and delectable; it was the perfect way to end our adventure on Sullivan’s Island. With tans, happy hearts, big smiles, and most importantly, full stomachs, we headed back to the hotel to prepare for an evening of fun hosted by the West Virginia Legislature.

Almost Heaven, West Virginia–2024 Conference Preview

By Ingrid Cuero

Who could turn down a night that includes great music, not-so rhythmically inclined dancing, and vibrant conversations? Not us! 

In 2024, West Virginia will be hosting the Southern Legislative Conference. As a preview, the State Legislature hosted an evening of jazz, dancing, a few remarks by legislators, and a lot of fun–all with a 1920s theme.

The Rivercity Dixieland Jazz Band set the stage with their jazz standards, including their rendition of “The Charleston,” which we attempted to learn! The song fit both our location, and also the 1920s’ theme of the evening.

We enjoyed the food provided by the sponsors, the music, and we even danced a bit! Morgan, Olivia, and I danced early in the night, and by the end of the night, Jessica and Michelle joined us!

With the evening being sponsored by the West Virginia delegation, Roger Hanshaw, Speaker of the WV House…

…invited everyone to attend next year, emphasizing that the conference would be held at the beautiful Greenbrier Hotel. We were sold!

To sweeten the deal, he and the WV Director of Tourism did some giveaways (which we competed for but lost)…

…and then he led a rendition of John Denver’s, Take Me Home, Country Roads.

Not many speakers could take on the role of musical guest, and it was an absolute delight. Afterward, we took a photo with him, and it was Michelle and Olivia’s first time to meet a Speaker of the House!

And we also enjoyed the music, people watching, and conversations.

Our long day ended in style-and in air conditioning, away from the threatening weather elements of the morning and afternoon. We called it a night, got in the car, and let city roads take us back to the place where we belong.

LOVE’n Philadelphia

From the busy streets of Austin to the congested alleys of Philadelphia, the LEAP Ambassadors found themselves immersed in the Philly spirit of brotherly love as they traveled to Philadelphia to begin their trip towards the Inauguration in Washington, DC. With the day’s itinerary including our items relating to history, cheese steaks, and art, we started the morning off with a quick stop at Edgar Allan Poe’s home. The museum was not open yet, but we reflected on some of our favorite Poe short stories and what life would have been for infant Poe. Additionally, we posed for a quick picture to document our visit.

Edgar Allan Poe, Philadelphia, LEAP Ambassadors, SHSU, LEAP Center

 University of Pennsylvania

Our first self-guided tour led us to the University of Pennsylvania. As an Ivy League School with a well-known reputation, it was interesting to compare “Penn” to Sam Houston State University. Contrary to SHSU’s campus, the University is located directly in downtown Philadelphia. In the “Green,” also known as the mall or center of campus, many well-known artists are displayed. Claes Oldenburg, Alexander Calder, and Robert Indiana stood out to the LEAP Ambassadors because we have seen their work on many previous trips.

Philadelphia, LEAP Ambassadors, SHSU, LEAP Center, Robert Indiana, LOVE

Robert Indiana is particularly well-known for his LOVE sculpture which has now become a symbol of Philadelphia. The city is home to three of the fifteen LOVE sculptures in the U.S.

While on campus, we also visited the Fisher Fine Arts Library which provides students a tranquil study place. The Library was architecturally detailed and unique, and included many study areas and books of special interests. “It seemed to be straight out of a Harry Potter movie,” so said LEAP ambassador Ryan Brim.

Philadelphia, LEAP Ambassadors, SHSU, LEAP Center, Penn University, Fisher Library

Constitutional Center

Next stop, the National Constitution Center, an interactive museum that teaches visitors about the Constitutional Convention and generally, what goes into creating a government. The first exhibit was a replica of the Constitutional Convention with life-sized statues of the delegates, with an exhibit that allowed us to sign our names to the Constitution.

Philadelphia, LEAP Ambassadors, SHSU, LEAP Center, National Constitution Center

The museum had an early copy of the Articles of Confederation and an original copy of the U.S. Constitution.  Fourteen original copies of the Constitution were created (one for each state and one for the US); however, only nine can be definitely accounted for now. Interestingly, we learned that although John Hancock has the largest signature on the Declaration of Independence, Button Gwinnett’s signature is actually more valuable.  Gwinnett was the first of the signers to die, which has apparently affected the value of his autograph positively.

Philadelphia, LEAP Ambassadors, SHSU, LEAP Center, National Constitution Center

Liberty Bell

When we opened the doors from the Constitution Center the chilly breeze motivated us to quickly continue our short journey to the next block and our next destination, the Liberty Bell. Excited to see one of the most iconic symbols of America, we found the exhibits interesting. We observed how the Bell had not only been the symbol for American Independence, but also for the freedom of slaves, women’s rights, and many more civil liberties. The Bell is fragile, with a crack that runs all the way down its side, a crack caused by the mix of many different metals during its molding process. The exhibit allows visitors to get close, and we could clearly see the deteriorating black wood and the crack in the Bell. Many people took selfies near the Bell, while others just admired its beauty.

Philadelphia, LEAP Ambassadors, SHSU, LEAP Center, Liberty Bell

Independence Hall

Across the street from that now resting Bell is Independence Hall. With great pride we walked down the block to see where freedom was once born and that same Bell had once hung. Independence Hall, once known as the Pennsylvania State House, formerly housed all three branches of Pennsylvania’s government.

Philadelphia, LEAP Ambassadors, SHSU, LEAP Center, Independence Hall

The first floor held both the old courtrooms, where our nation’s first Supreme Court once met, and the Assembly Room, also known as the Signing Room, as it was the room in which our founding fathers signed the Declaration of Independence in 1776.

Philadelphia, LEAP Ambassadors, SHSU, LEAP Center, Signing Room, Independence Hall

Although the tour was short, it was breathtaking to stand in the same room where fifty-six of America’s most important men once stood to draft the document that would forge the nation’s destiny.

Benjamin Franklin Museum

With an elevated spirit, we trailed through historic streets of Philadelphia to the Benjamin Franklin Museum. Through interactive exhibits we learned about this Founding Father’s great intelligence and versatility. Not only was he a genius with words and democratic philosophy, he was also an avid inventor. Among his notable achievements were the bifocals, the glass harmonica, and the discovery of electricity in lighting. We also learned of his devotion to community by developing the first public library, fire insurance, and fire department. The trip through this museum helped build on what we learned about one of our nation’s most important advocates of democracy after visiting Independence Hall.

Sonny’s Steaks

A few short blocks from the Ben Franklin Museum we stopped for lunch at Sonny’s Steaks. Sonny’s tries to ensure that every customer tastes an authentic Philly Cheesesteak, or at least knows what they’re getting. To this extent, when Brian ordered the “Classic with American cheese,” the cashier countered with, “It ain’t classic if it’s American, baby!” But, this didn’t move Brian to change his order. We shared an order of “Crazy Fries,” covered in Philly-favorite Cheez Whiz, jalapeños, bacon, and red onion.  The Crazy Fries were left mostly uneaten, however, because the cheesesteaks had left us “crazy full.”

Philadelphia City Hall

To walk off our lunch, we footed it around for photo ops at the home of Betsy Ross…

Philadelphia, LEAP Ambassadors, SHSU, LEAP Center, Betsy Ross House

…and in Elfreth’s Alley…

Philadelphia, LEAP Ambassadors, SHSU, LEAP Center, Elfrith's Alley

…our nation’s oldest continually-inhabited residential street. We did not stay for long at either location, though, because we were on our way to Philadelphia’s City Hall, the largest municipal building in the U.S.  The building covers an entire city block and has a 37-foot, 27-ton bronze statue of city founder, William Penn, atop the 509-ft clock tower. (It is reportedly the tallest statue on top of a building in the world.) From the observation deck at the top of the tower, we could see nearly all of the city plus New Jersey across the Delaware River.

Philadelphia, LEAP Ambassadors, SHSU, LEAP Center, Philadelphia City Hall

Just outside City Hall, in Dilworth Park, we found a second Indiana LOVE statue for some additional photo ops.

phi_dilworth_plaza_love_students_web

Exploring the Philadelphia City Hall courtyard and park was fun, but our bare faces could no longer bear the chilly Northern breeze. We burrowed into our mini-van and made the hectic ride through traffic to the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Philadelphia Museum of Art

As we climbed the steps of the building we discussed the styles of art that we most wanted to see and decided to focus on the American, 19th Century European, and Modern and Contemporary galleries.

With a first-time visitor to an art museum among us, we thought it best to see American artists like James Peale, Edward Moran, and Herman Herzog. The American gallery included not only artwork from America’s first celebrated artists but also some of our nation’s oldest silverware, glassware, china, and furniture, some dating back to the 1730s. While these domestic artifacts may not have been great works of art in their own sake, they did demonstrate the creativity of colonists as our nation was formed. (Note: Christina highly enjoyed this section and even picked out a favorite artist, Thomas Eakins.)

We spent a considerable amount of time reading the numerous American gallery exhibits before moving to 19th Century European art. We were delighted to come across Impressionist artworks by Vincent Van Gogh…

Philadelphia, LEAP Ambassadors, SHSU, LEAP Center, Philadelphia Museum of Art, Vincent Van Gogh

…Camille Pissarro, and Claude Monet…

Philadelphia, LEAP Ambassadors, SHSU, LEAP Center, Philadelphia Museum of Art, Vincent Van Gogh, Philadelphia Museum of Art, Claude Monet

…among others. As one LEAP Ambassador put it, “the exhibits are a nice opportunity to explore new works from artists we have seen on previous trips.”

More interesting was when we viewed the works by Marcel Duchamp, included in the Contemporary and Modern gallery. Duchamp was famous for repurposing everyday objects to turn them into “art,” like in his most famous sculpture Fountain. In short, this sculpture is merely a urinal turned on its side and meant to beg the question, “what is art?” However, this enigma did not stop us from enjoying Duchamp’s paintings, which Brian found especially interesting, as they are not Duchamp’s most common.

And with that trifling question dissipating, we found ourselves back at the beginning, with just enough time to give the gift shop a once-over. Passing through the western exit we met a scene very familiar to us, that scene in the film Rocky which depicts Sylvester Stallone jogging up the stairs of the Philadelphia Museum of Art. In honor of this scene, a commissioned statue of a triumphant Rocky Balboa raising his gloved fists was commissioned stands near the front of the museum.

Philadelphia, LEAP Ambassadors, SHSU, LEAP Center, Philadelphia Museum of Art, Rocky

After a friendly Philly local pointed us in the right direction, we took a quick photo, then left to find some much-needed dinner.

Noord

With the Philadelphia skyline at our shoulders, and giving one last gaze at the inspiring Independence Hall, we departed downtown for a Danish dinner at Noord. Candlelit tables and soft background music completed the cozy atmosphere. The menu of Danish dishes, although somewhat hard to pronounce, all looked to be tasty. After consulting our helpful waitress we opted for adventure and began our meal with an appetizing dish of escargot. As the mollusk-filled-dish came into view, we were relieved to see the cooked snails covered in a sauce that made the dish look extra savory. After the first bite, it was agreed that the escargot was definitely a good choice.

The main course filled our table with plates of vinegar-dressed rabbit legs, pork shoulder, mussel curry stew, and Danish brussel sprouts. And even after all that, we had enough appetite left to enjoy some sweets, so we ordered “sharing” samples of the almond cake, berry bread pudding, and vanilla cake. Needless to say, we left the restaurant with a very satisfied belly.


As we prepared to leave, with a nightly chill in the air, we still felt excitement at being on the land where our very nation had once formed its government. The remaining distance ahead of us seemed short compared to usual LEAP cross-country trips, as we’re anticipating with excitement participating in an institution of sorts itself, the installation ceremony of a new President being sworn into office. We still have a few adventures left in our itinerary before then. For now, we have left the bustling streets of Philadelphia and await our new day in Delaware.

Philadelphia, LEAP Ambassadors, SHSU, LEAP Center, LOVE, Robert Indiana

Riding Through Time With Jeff Guinn and Henry Ford

As the LEAP ambassadors’ research drew to a close, still more adventures await them on the road. Although the various activities we got to engage in on the way to Detroit were elucidating and interesting, the true focus of our trip was as stated previously, to help Jeff Guinn in researching the Vagabonds.

HFM_Research_Guys_Web

For that effort, from Monday to Thursday, we followed the same routine; getting to the Henry Ford Museum’s research library around 9 a.m., researching for a few hours, getting lunch with Mr. Guinn and Mr. Fuquay, researching some more, and finally spending an hour touring the museum or the adjacent Greenfield Village.

This was a phenomenal opportunity to see a best-selling author in the research environment. Additionally, we got to hear many stories and see many amazing artifacts.

HFM_Lunch_Group_Web


Research

One highlight was being taken back into the conservation section of the Henry Ford, where we were shown a Lincoln refrigerated truck that was being restored.

1922 Car Used by Vagabonds
1922 Car Used by Vagabonds

Incredibly, this was the very refrigerated truck that Henry Ford, Harvey Firestone, and Thomas Edison had taken along with them on a few of their camping trips! We got to stand next to real history, and see how the team of the Henry Ford is working to preserve and restore such artifacts for future generations to enjoy.

Henry Ford Museum, Conservation

Another special treat was being able to help Jeff Guinn pick out pictures for his book from the Henry Ford’s digital collection.

The Vagabonds, Beson Ford Research Center, Jeff Guinn
Reviewing Vagabonds Photographs for Mr. Guinn’s Book

We sat down and looked through 231 pictures, narrowing these down to about 40. Mr. Guinn will look through other sources before settling on which ones he wants to see appear in the book. At that point, the marketing team for Simon & Schuster, Mr. Guinn’s publisher, will dissect his choices, and they will make the final decisions.

During our breaks, where we could wander freely in the museums. Following our first day, which we spent focusing primarily on the Beatles Exhibit and automobiles in the Henry Ford Museum, we spent the last couple of days looking over planes, civil rights exhibits, Americana, and even furniture.


Henry Ford Museum

But this was no ordinary furniture; many of the pieces were owned by highly accomplished gentlemen. We saw a desk used by Edgar Allen Poe for most of his adult life, for example. It is possible that some of the stories and poems that are so loved today, like “The Raven,” “The Telltale Heart,” or “The Pit and the Pendulum,” were scribed at this very desk.

Edgar Allan Poe, Henry Ford Museum, Writing Desk
Edgar Allan Poe’s Writing Desk

We also got to see John Hancock’s card table and Mark Twain’s writing table!

Mark Twain, Writing Desk, Henry Ford Museum
Mark Twin Portrait & Writing Table

In the planes section, the Museum had a replica of the Wright Brothers’ plane…

Wright Brothers, Henry Ford Museum, Kitty Hawk
Replica of Wright Brothers’ Plane

…and a little known Ford plane, which never really proved successful commercially.

Ford Plane, Henry Ford Museum
Ford Company’s Unsuccessful Plane

In the Americana section, they had a copy of Thomas Paine’s “Common Sense”….

Thomas Paine, Common Sense, Henry Ford Museum
Thomas Paine’s “Common Sense”

… and the chair in which Abraham Lincoln was sitting when he was assassinated.

Abraham Lincoln, Assassination, Ford Theater, Henry Ford Museum
The Abraham Lincoln from Ford Theater

As the above suggests, some of the artifacts were unusual, even unsettling.

On a more inspirational level, the Museum had the bus on which Rosa Parks refused to take a back seat, both literally and metaphorically.

Rosa Parks, Bus, Segregation, Henry Ford Museum
The Bus on Which Rosa Parks Refused to Take a Back Seat

Amazingly, people were even allowed to sit in the seat she refused to relinquish.  The Museum also had guidelines of the “Montgomery Improvement Association” (led by Martin Luther King, Jr.) distributed to African Americans which helped them stand for their rights without putting themselves or others in undue danger.

HFM_Rosa_Parks_Bus_Rules_Web


Wrapping Up

Finally though, Thursday afternoon rolled around, and our time at the Henry Ford drew to a close. We said our goodbyes to Jeff Guinn and Jim Fuquay while thanking them for giving us the opportunity to work with them for a week.

L-R: Jim Fuquay, Brian Aldaco, Jeff Guinn, Paul Oliver
L-R: Jim Fuquay, Brian Aldaco, Jeff Guinn, Paul Oliver

Besides being a great researcher and a great teacher, he is a very personable and amiable man, who really does love his work. The joy he takes in his research is reflected in both his books and in his interactions with others. After spending a week with Jeff Guinn, you can’t help but be interested in whatever subject he’s writing about!

Jeff Guinn and Paul Oliver
Jeff Guinn and Paul Oliver