Savannah, the oldest city in the State of Georgia, is a lively town with a vast and rich history. For our second day in the Deep South, we endeavored to learn more of Savannah’s history, and maybe experience some of it, too!
So, with an assist from Old Town Trolley Tours, we set out to learn more. And did we! For example, did you know that Savannah is where Eli Whitney developed the cotton gin? Or that the second deadliest battle of the Revolutionary War (The Siege of Savannah) occurred here? Or that Savannah was America’s first “planned city”? James Oglethorpe laid out the city in a grid system with 24 original squares but only 22 are still in existence today! There is a statute of Oglethorpe in Chippewa Square that is facing the south towards Florida – his Spanish enemies.
All the statues we saw were facing in the direction of their enemies since one should never give their back to them.
Our first stop was the First African Baptist Church, which is the oldest Black congregation in North America.
The church played an integral role in American history by serving as a part of the Underground Railroad, hiding those who were escaping enslavement. It was also the place where Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. preached his first sermon.
Savannah has been featured in several popular films and in literature. Forrest Gump, Something to Talk About, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, and Lady & the Tramp are just a few of the films set in (or filmed in–or both!) Savannah. We were able to drive past and explore the famous locations where some scenes from the blockbuster films were shot, including Chippewa Square, often referred to as Forrest Gump Square since that’s where the scene of Forrest sitting on a bench waiting for the bus was filmed.
The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist was another highlight of our tour. Savannah once had four prohibitions: slavery, liquor, lawyers, and Catholics. The cathedral’s congregation was reorganized and established in 1796, becoming the first Catholic church in Savannah, consisting primarily of Haitian immigrants.
Although the original structure burned in 1898, the current building beautifully replaces the original while reflecting the long-standing Haitian and French influences on the region.
The trolley was an excellent way to get a glimpse into the beautiful city of Savannah! Exploring cities with a vibrant culture allows us to broaden our sense of the world through a comparison to our individual communities and experiences.
Goose Feathers Café
After a long morning of exploring, we decided to hop off the trolley at the City Market stop to head over to Goose Feathers Cafe. Greeted by the staff’s warm hospitality, we browsed menu options before ordering. Many of their menu items were named after historical streets and city celebrities of Savannah. Therefore, our entrees included the Oglethorpe sandwich, the Barnard Street Club (both the regular and gluten-free options), and the Greek salad.
The food was both delicious and flavorful, showcasing the delicious flavor combinations of the Deep South.
Mercer House
After our great lunch from Goose Feathers Café, we felt refreshed and energized, ready to continue sightseeing!
LEAP trips differ from most other educational field trips. While no class credit is earned for the trip, homework and preparations are expected. We might, for example, research a town, watch a documentary, or read a book. For this trip, we did all three!
Collectively, our favorite read for the trip was John Berendt’s Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. This book details Savannah in the 1980s through the eyes of an outsider (Berendt) who describes the murder trial of Jim Williams. To us today, Williams is something of a celebrity and savior of Savannahian architecture and culture.
To Savannahians in the 1980s, Williams was the proprietor of countless homes and host of infamous Christmas parties. To everyone, he is the subject of arguably the largest controversy in the Low Country.
The Mercer-Williams House faces Monterrey Square in the historic downtown of Savannah and was originally built for the great-grandparents of Johnny Mercer (General Hugh Mercer is Johnny’s famous great-grandparent) in 1860. Williams purchased the home in 1969, and it was almost in complete disrepair. Like the art and antique dealer that he was, Williams completely revamped the house down to hand-mixed, original paint colors, and hand-painted granite designs on the baseboards.
From a young age and under the guidance of his carpenter father, Williams renovated or restored different items. He used the basement of the Mercer-Williams as his workshop to repair the antiques, which he would later sell in the main house. Williams had a unique love for portraits, which was clearly displayed as we ventured around the house. Notable portraitists included Gilbert Stuart, Thomas Hudson, and John James Audubon. My favorite of the Williams collection was the 20 Audubon prints in one of the parlors.
The most impactful portion of the house was the study where Williams shot and killed his employee/lover Danny Hansford. Berendt describes in detail the events that did (or did not, depending on your belief in Williams’ innocence) take place in that room. The room felt heavier as we all knew we were in the room where Hansford threatened Williams with a German Luger, misfired, and seconds later fell to the ground with three new wounds.
Over the course of eight years and four trials, Williams was found not guilty by the Georgia Supreme Court, only to die a few months later at the age of 59, just a few feet from where he killed Danny Hansford.
Our experience in the Mercer Home was further enriched by having read Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. With that background knowledge, we were able to associate the beautifully decorated interior with the events that occurred within the walls of the house.
Our tour guide, Max, gave a great overview of the history of the House and its few occupants. Some of the Williams family still take residence in the upper levels of the House, so sadly photography was not allowed. However, we did not let this distract us from our tour, as we visualized the scenes in the book in the rooms before us–and took advantage of much outdoor photography!
Leopold’s Ice Cream
We couldn’t leave Savannah without trying Leopold’s Ice Cream. After almost a full day of walking the historic squares of Savannah, we were due for a cold yet sweet Savannah tradition.
Leopold’s is known for their rich homemade ice cream dating all the way back to 1919. They pride themselves in having the “Best ice cream in Georgia.”
Due to Leopold’s reputation and the ice cream shop’s popularity, we were met with a long line and waiting time. To maximize this time we thought about the flavors we would order, perspired, and waited some more.
After a long debate and thought, I opted for the Butter Pecan and one of Professor Yawn’s favorites, the Peanut Butter Chippy. Olivia decided on the coffee chocolate chip; Ingrid, the vanilla. Jessica had a scoop of Rum Bisque and a scoop of Chocolate Chewies and Cream. Morgan took a different route and opted for a combination of lemon custard and coffee chocolate chip, a weird combination if you ask me. Nonetheless, we were all very pleased with our selections, and a majority of us would agree that this is the best ice cream in Georgia!
Jekyll Island
Jekyll Island is one of the “Golden Isles” of Georgia, and it is one of the most popular. Interestingly, it is owned by the State of Georgia, and it is governed by its own board of directors, which limit its development. That’s a happy reality for us, because we were visiting to explore some of its more natural elements.
And while we may have been there to see the island’s natural elements, but this did not stop us from driving through the “historic district,” where wealthy individuals such as Frank Henry Goodyear (Goodyear Tires) and William Rockefeller had houses. They were beautiful, and more closely resembled mansions than cottages.
Our main destination, however, was “Driftwood Beach,” which features hundreds of dead trees, victims of beach erosion. At low tide, these trees lie in impossibly intriguing angles across the beach, perfect for climbing, posing, or nature photography. We attempted all three.
Not all of the Ambassadors, we learned, are equally adept at climbing.
Or taking photos.
But, generally, we persevered, got a few notable photographs, and we experienced the beauty of a natural setting in the Georgia Low Country.
With that accomplishment, we traversed the Sidney Lanier Bridge (whose poetry we read prior to traveling, and whose home we stopped by yesterday), and returned to Savannah.
Center for Law, Engagement, and Politics 