It was a day to remember: we had already luxuriated in the extravagance of the Newport Mansions; enjoyed the sun, the wind, and the rush of parasailing. And still we had much to do. We wanted to spend a little time on the beach on Aquindeck Island, seeing wildlife and enjoying the coastal breeze; trying some of Rhode Island’s tastier dinner spots; and witnessing first-hand the famed installation art Waterfire.
Aquindeck Island
You might be forgiven if you think that Rhode Island is surrounded by water. That is, after all, the definition of an island. But the state of Rhode Island isn’t an island. Originally, Rhode Island consisted of settlements such as Newport and Portsmouth, which are, in fact, on an island, plus the territory on the mainland (Providence). This, then, is the Rhode Island in the State’s name, which was technically, “Rhode Island and the Providence Plantations.”
No one, however, used the full name of the island. Still, the State stuck with “Rhode Island and the Providence Plantations” for some 300 years, only changing its name officially in 2020.
Nonetheless, Rhode Islanders do have quick access to the shore; in fact, by our calculations, everyone in the state can get to the ocean or a bay in less than 35 minutes. It may not be an island, but it can fairly call itself “The Ocean State.”
Accordingly, as part of our Rhode Island explorations, we spent considerable time alternating between land and sea–and, as we noted in our prior blog, the air.
But we also wanted a closer, more tactile feel of the Rhode Island Coastline. So we drove along Ocean Drive, walking on the rocks; traipsing along the shore, where the wet waves tickled our feet; and overall gaining a different sensory perspective of Rhode Island.
We saw more evidence of the wealth that populates the coastline…
…and we observed and listened to some of the coastal wildlife.
It was, as the photos attest, a very different experience than the beaches with which we were familiar (e.g., Galveston).
All this touring, parasailing, beachcombing, and wildlife watching helped us build up a hunger, which made (most of) us think of seafood. To that end, we researched restaurants en route to our evening conference destination, and we found Track 15, a food court on the river.
Track 15
What kind of dining establishment, you ask, is named “Track 15?” In this case, it is a dining destination at the former Union Station (1898), which housed 14 separate railroad tracks. The food court, then, is an extension of a key transportation hub in Providence’s history, the 15th Track.
The 15th Track doubles as a “third place,” a place that brings people together while also allowing the past and present to intermingle. The restaurants are adjacent to Providence’s Waterplace Park, an urban park where the land and sea merge and people gather, coming together. Even the experience of dining is reimagined, bringing the past to the present: some of the eating establishments offer menus in the shape of arrival/departure boards of the old railroad stations; and the table tops on which we and others ate were made from wood recycled from the old rail cars.
True to Rhode Island’s proximity to the sea, we enjoyed an excellent (small) seafood platter (clams, mussels and shrimp), fish, and a lobster roll.
But we mixed it up a bit, and we also tried some pasta; true to the spirit of being in a former transportation hub, we also wanted some food more common to other places.
The food was excellent. The pasta was hand-rolled and featured subtle flavors that came together just right. The lobster was creamy and fluffy; the fish buttery and flaky; and the seafood platter a surprising variety of flavors: the clams were sweet and light; the mussels more tender and briny; and the oysters clean and less salty than one would imagine.
We also enjoyed the people watching. There is both indoor and outdoor seating, and the latter features games, versatile seating, and alcoves. People played cornhole; mothers danced and laughed with daughters; and others just relaxed and listened, delighting in the nice weather.
Following this enjoyable sensory experience, we ambled on to our next stop, Waterplace Park.
Waterfire
To end our day, we attended a reception in downtown Providence organized for us by the Council of State Governments and operated by WaterFire , a nonprofit dedicated to revitalizing city life through visual and performance art.
We set up stations and split into two groups to capture different photos and videos of the evening. Hundreds of people were in attendance, including legislators, conference participants, local residents, and passersby.
As the crowd filled the beautiful space, the event began with a ceremonial gong. An eclectic playlist emanated from speakers in the park. Myriad musical styles were represented: African, Latino, 60s Rock, Classical, Rap, and Alt-Contemporary. The music was selected consciously, offering a global scope to the ceremony, reflecting the goal of bringing people together.
The installation sculpture incorporates the world’s four elements. humans sit on the earth surrounding the water. The Fire Dancer enters…
…while fire starters and fire tenders light logs on fire, and as the wind sweeps along the river, sparks fly in the air.
Conceived as performance art, the ceremony is multi-sensory: the sound of the music, the touch of the wind and the heat on the skin, the smell of the fire, and, of course, the visual spectacle of a fire coming forth from water.
The event was effective in stimulating our senses, while also playing with our expectations. What we all agreed on was that it was a thought-provoking and interesting event that brought strangers and friends together while highlighting the beauty of Providence, Rhode Island.
It was a sense-sational way to end a full day in Providence, Rhode Island.
It was an excursion day at the conference, where guests had the opportunity to go to Newport, Rhode Island and see some of the Host State’s most intriguing sites. In Rhode Island, this involves a slew of Gilded Age Mansions, and we managed to fit in three separate homes: The Breakers, the Marble House, and Rosecliff.
Newport, Rhode Island has beauty, temperate summers, and its location on a picturesque coastline have made it an ideal location for summer homes for the wealthy. Over the decades, however, not all of the owners’ descendants have wanted to maintain these homes, nor is it easy to find buyers for structures worth, according to recent estimates, 500 million.
Fortunately, the Preservation Society of Newport County purchased many of these homes over the past sixty years, and they have made them available for touring to the general public. For those interested, ticket options include The Breakers + 1 or The Breakers + 2 or specialty tours (e.g., “Under The Breakers Tour”). We opted for The Breakers + 1, with the idea that after seeing the main attraction, we would “breakup” and see different houses (Moya and Discon: Rosecliff; Mike and Stephanie: The Marble House).
The Marble House
The wealthy had lived in Newport prior to the construction of “The Marble House” by William Vanderbilt, but this home was the first of the stone-built mansions that would eventually dot the coastline. An aptly-named structure if ever there was one, the Marble House was designed by Richard Morris Hunt, featured fifty rooms, 140,000 square feet of space, and 500,000 cubic feet of marble.
William Vanderbilt gave it to Alva as a gift for her 39th birthday, which makes you wonder what he would have given to her for, say, her fiftieth birthday. We’ll never know, because she divorced him not long after, and she kept the house.
Done largely in a Beaux-Arts style, the home was unparalleled in opulence when it was completed in 1892. It sits on the Atlantic coast, overlooking the ocean, features two-story Corinthian columns, and its western facade somewhat resembles the White House. With its size and splendor, the home has been the setting for many films and television shows, including The Great Gatsby (1974), 27 Dresses, The Buccaneers, and The Gilded Age.
For those visiting in person, however, the entry is through two doors (with WV on the front) that weigh one-and-a-half tons each, an entry that offers a breath-taking view of the grand staircase.
This two-level room is inspired by both the Palace of Versailles and the Louvre. The banister is wrought iron with bronze gilding, the room gleams with yellow Siena marble, and an eighteenth century mural graces the ceiling, above a gold and crystal chandelier.
Each room offers similarly notable features. The dining room–which was unlike any room we have dined in–showcases a large table with bronze chairs with gold leaf–each weighing seventy-five pounds.
The ceiling decor included game such that might be served for dinner.
The gold room is, as one might expect, predominately gold, but it is accented by green silk drapes (by Prelle) and black.
The most ornate room, however, was the gothic room, which featured Alva Vanderbilt’s collection of medieval art and artifacts, all situated in a room with gothic elements.
By itself, the Marble House offers a class in architecture, interior design, art, history, and excess.
But it is also interesting as a window to an age in which the wealthy competed with each other for even greater conspicuous splendor, which we weren’t sure was even possible until we visited The Breakers.
The Breakers
by Olivia Discon
It’s difficult to select a favorite house, but there is a reason that The Breakers is common to most of the tours. Built in 1895 and designed by Richard Morris Hunt for the Cornelius Vanderbilt family, the home boasts 70 rooms and 138,000 square feet. With a fortune built on shipping and railroads, the Vanderbilts were one of America’s wealthiest families, and their wealth is evident everywhere in the home.
Visitors to the home first see “The Great Hall,” which was inspired by an Italian Courtyard. Not wanting a true open roof, the family opted for a ceiling with a trompe l’oeil mural to mimic the open sky.
Built in a perfect cube–50 by 50 by 50–this single room is larger than the average American house. The term “great” simply doesn’t do the hall justice.
The Billiard Room was another favorite of the group. The mosaic floor was adorned with coastal details, the walls featured “arches” painted in gold leaf, and the room was designed with numerous elements, making for a fun “I Spy” type game for visitors.
Although we were a bit tired from waking up so early, we couldn’t help but fall in love with the “Morning Room.” The room faces east, allowing the sun to pour into the chamber, and the warm lighting and yellow-hued adornments provided a welcoming warmth. The idea of having a room so opulent and just for the morning hours is such a Vanderbilt type of luxury.
One of most interesting aspects of the house is that each room offers intricate and elaborate details that are ripe for overlooking things. To take an example, the Morning Room features panels with cherubs, which, at first glance, appear to simply be classically-themed lagniappe. Upon closer look, however, you see that one cherub is holding an anchor; the other is holding a railroad spike and hammer. Both tie back into the source of the Vanderbilt’s income–the income that made such decor possible.
Each room offered something special. The Loggia offered a breath-taking view of the ocean;
…the bedrooms, although described by the owners as more “austere” than the public-facing rooms, were still opulent, each featuring separate baths, dressing rooms, and walk-in closets;
…and the library was perhaps the most stunning, with the wood doors that had gold leaf pressed into them to give an appearance of a storybook cover, and upper walls lined with green Spanish leather, providing the look of a hide-bound book.
It’s difficult to fathom that such a home was used for only part of the year, a reminder that we live in different worlds and a different age than the Vanderbilts.
Rosecliff
by Michelle Moya
After exploring The Breakers, Olivia and I were especially excited to visit another Newport mansion renowned for its elegance and beauty—Rosecliff Mansion—and it absolutely lived up to its reputation.
Commissioned in 1899 by silver heiress Teresa “Tessie” Fair Oelrichs and designed by architect Stanford White, Rosecliff draws inspiration from the Grand Trianon at Versailles. Its pale limestone façade and French neoclassical design create an elegant lightness that sets it apart from Newport’s other grand estates. While Olivia and I are still learning about various architectural styles, visiting both these homes provided a perfect opportunity to deepen our understanding.
Rosecliff’s history includes dramatic turns: it was sold for a mere $21,000 in 1941, but endured severe winter damage before the Monroes refurbished it in 1947. In 1971, the Preservation Society received the mansion as a donation, and it is now considered a historic house museum, event space, and more.
Upon entering, the first thing that caught our eye was the stunning heart-shaped frame surrounding the staircase. This feature lends the entrance hall a theatrical elegance—a design element I found particularly beautiful.
Our self-guided tour began in the French Renaissance salon, which quickly became my favorite space.
The room has coffered ceilings and classical pilasters, with chandeliers adorned by musical instruments—a homage to Teresa’s talents as a master of the flute, piano, guitar, mandolin, and banjo! Similarly, portraits of society members, painted in the grand European tradition, line the walls.
Next, the tour leads to the mansion’s crown jewel: its ballroom. The ballroom measures 40 by 80 feet with high 22-foot ceilings, making it Newport’s largest private ballroom. There are windows along both sides, creating an airy ambiance, while a masterful trompe-l’œil ceiling depicts a sky-like garden landscape. This room was Olivia’s favorite, and it’s easy to see why.
While we were reading about this space, we also learned that Teresa Fair Oelrichs truly embodied Gilded Age excess, especially in fashion. Wealthy families ordered wardrobes from Charles Frederick Worth in Paris, with ladies visiting the House of Worth twice yearly, spending roughly $30,000 per visit, the equivalent of $600,000 today. This translates to annual clothing expenditures of about $1.2 million in today’s currency, which we found absolutely crazy!
The first floor also houses the Library (or Billiard Room), showcasing Stanford White’s Jacobean styling with bleached English oak paneling and a distinctive white paint.
Additionally, the Dining Room, which is now painted white, having been originally pea-green walls, was filled gold accents, silk draperies by Jules Allard, and landscape panels.
The second floor of the mansion offers additional rooms and rotating exhibits. Currently, the room hosts “Richard Morris Hunt: In a New Light,” showcasing the architect’s contributions and career.
The exhibit displayed his personal sketchbooks…
patron collections, and his creative journey…
After a stop at the gift shop, the tour led us to the mansion’s rear, where a walkway opens onto breathtaking grounds—a view we both instantly fell in love with. Rosecliff’s 21 acres of formal gardens…
oceanfront landscapes…
…and beautiful rear exterior…
…create a stunning contrast between refined architecture and Rhode Island’s rugged coastline.
Today, Rosecliff continues to host elegant gatherings and has appeared in films such as the The Great Gatsby, True Lies, Heaven’s Gate, Amistad, 27 Dresses, and many more. It stands as a great reminder of Gilded Age grandeur and a cultural treasure that Olivia and I loved exploring!
Concluding Thoughts
As noted above, The Great Gatsby, written by F. Scott Fitzgerald, was filmed at various locations on the Newport Coast. The film tries to capture visually the spirit of the book, which addresses themes such as the American Dream and materialism of the Gilded Age and its vestiges that carried over through the 1920s, when the novel was written. It’s a harsh view of the United States, and it is perhaps unfair.
But our visit to the Newport Mansions did drive home a point made by Fitzgerald in a short story described as “an extension of ‘The Great Gatsby’, “Let me tell you about the very rich. They are different from you and me….They think, deep in their hearts, that they are better than we are because we had to discover the compensations and refuges of life for ourselves….They are different.”
Our visit to the Newport Mansions was a wonderful learning experience. We had a rare chance to see the splendor that only a few people ever get to experience, and even fewer have a chance to experience as a way of life. It was a moment to soak in, a chance to see the beauty, the craftsmanship, and the intricacy that the world’s great artists and architects could create, and it was a reminder that those who lived here enjoyed very different lives than the rest of us.
Our latest day in Boston was a blend of history, art, literature, and even a little fine dining. It was a journey of exploration: a first look at the pivotal battlegrounds of the Revolutionary War; a reflection on the legacy of literary giants; an in-depth look at the presidency of John F. Kennedy, and even a foray into the halls of Harvard. In short, it was a look at much of what has been and a glimpse into what can be.
This is the third presidential library I have visited, and it is the fifth that Olivia has visited. Progress in our educational travels!
The Kennedy family is central to Boston’s identity, and this library serves as both a monument and a memorial to the 35th president. Designed by I.M. Pei and completed in 1979, the Library’s striking glass pavilion overlooks Boston Harbor, creating a contemplative atmosphere with natural light flooding the museum.
We began with Young Jack, a candid look at Kennedy’s childhood and school years. Rather than presenting a sanitized version of his youth, the exhibit honestly portrayed his struggles as a student, making his later achievements feel all the more inspiring.
From there, we watched an introductory film narrated by Kennedy himself. The film offered a clear overview of his early life, political rise, and the moment he realized his presidential ambitions, essentially guiding us through the museum experience that followed.
This led naturally into the Campaign Trail exhibit, one of my favorites, which captured the energy of the 1960 election. We explored Democratic National Convention memorabilia, many of Kennedy’s campaign signs, and a large map illustrating Kennedy’s narrow victory over Nixon–an interesting way to understand the election results in context.
The museum then shifted focus to Kennedy’s presidency, offering multiple perspectives on his time in office. This exhibit showcased footage of his inauguration in 1961, Chief Justice Earl Warren administering the oath of office, and many stages in his life as president.
Particularly fascinating was the exhibit on Kennedy’s literary achievements, including his Pulitzer Prize–winning book Profiles in Courage, which celebrates political leaders such as Sam Houston and John Quincy Adams.
Equally impressive was the museum’s full-scale replica of the Oval Office, complete with Kennedy’s presidential desk, which gave a tangible sense of life in the White House.
The “Presidential Pets” special exhibit was an unexpected highlight, revealing the lighter side of life in the White House. From FDR’s Scottish terrier Falla to Clinton’s cat Socks–the first “First Cat” to capture widespread media attention–these animals brought warmth and personality to the presidency. The exhibit ended with an interactive display where we could add our own pet’s name, creating a fun, personal connection to the exhibit.
We wrapped up our visit with a photo in front of the American flag with Boston Harbor stretching behind us-a perfect ending to what had become my new favorite presidential library!
Boston Public Library
By Olivia Discon
Following our visit to the Kennedy Library, the torch was passed to a different type of library. The Boston Public Library rivals the best libraries in the country, and it is my favorite stop thus far in our trip.
Designed by Charles Follen McKim, the Library possesses a grandeur that leads visitors to expect much from the interior.
The entrance was breathtaking. Much like the Library of Congress in Washington, DC, the high ceilings are covered in mosaic tiles with the names of some of the greatest minds in history. In the context of this trip, it was especially meaningful to see the names of Nathaniel Hawthorne…
…and Thoreau, as well as Charles Bulfinch, the architect of the Massachusetts State House. With its yellow Siena marble, the entire building is just unbelievably beautiful.
At the top of the stairs, we were met with two lion sculptures. Stephanie, who took the lead on this tour, told us that they were actually memorials to two Massachusetts Civil War volunteer infantry units. Tradition says that rubbing the lion’s bottoms brings good luck, and with the LSAT coming up, I figured I could use all the good fortune I could get, so I did not pass up the chance.
The murals along the staircase were painted by Pierre Puvis de Chavannes. Interestingly, he refused to paint them in Boston and instead created them in France, then had them shipped to the library.
We then went into the Abbey Room, which used to be a waiting room for people requesting books. Its walls are filled with Edwin Austin Abbey’s mural cycle, The Quest and Achievement of the Holy Grail. Even the waiting rooms here are more elaborate and impressive than most buildings today.
The third floor was the most awe-inspiring of all. Covering the ceiling is John Singer Sargent’s monumental series, The Triumph of Religion. It consists of 19 panels that capture key symbols and stories from different religions. In true Sargent style, the figures are powerful and striking, and the work overall is stunning.
It was moving to see a public space created with such thought and artistry during the early years of the nation. It makes sense that a young country trying to define its cultural identity would invest so heavily in these kinds of spaces.
Wusong Road
by Olivia Discon
For lunch, we stopped at Wusong Road, a tiki bar and restaurant that brought a little Hawaiian flair into our day. The bright, tropical theme made for a fun change of pace. Even if we weren’t having tiki adventures, we certainly had a culinary one!
Our table shared a mix of dishes: crab rangoon, brussels sprouts, pork fried rice chicharrón, and ceviche.
Michelle, true to her love of seafood, especially enjoyed the ceviche. Professor Yawn and I leaned toward the crab rangoon as our favorite, while Stephanie was pleasantly surprised by how much she liked the ceviche. With a mix of productivity and good conversation, we felt ready to take on the rest of the day.
A Walk Through Harvard’s Campus
On a trip filled with recurring themes of idealism, it felt fitting that Michelle, Stephanie, Professor Yawn, and I walked through Harvard University. The campus has shaped some of the greatest minds in American history, and it naturally invites reflection on what kind of nation we have become. It was also a nice touch that JFK, one of Harvard’s most famous graduates, helped us connect the political and educational themes of the trip.
The campus itself is gorgeous. The red brick buildings, many of which date to the 18th century, add the appropriate sense of history, while the modern buildings remind visitors that this is a cutting-edge educational institution.
And the campus is punctuated by green space, public art (although less than we expected), and myriad monuments.
Nearby, we saw Harvard Law School, which, for aspiring law students, is a surreal experience. It is hard to process fully how much influence this one institution has had: nearly 19 percent of U.S. Supreme Court Justices and almost 18 percent of U.S. Presidents have graduated from Harvard Law.
Harvard Art Museum
The impressive history of Harvard Law is matched by its Art Museums, which are free and open to the public! (But don’t even ask about parking.) The structure itself is impressive. Designed by Richard Morris Hunt (who also designed Biltmore, the pedestal to the Statue of Liberty, and MOMA’s fifth avenue building.
The art equaled the architecture in impressiveness. In one gallery alone, we found three Van Goghs, three Degas, two Monets, two Renoirs, and three Picassos. All of the pieces were part of Maurice Wertheim’s collection, and he, a class of 1906 graduate, donated the work to Harvard. It’s good to have successful alumni.
From there, the names just kept coming. Klimt, Munch, Fenninger, Pollock, Moore, Mondrian.
Olivia, on her first guess, identified the Gustav Klimt piece, an impressive feat considering its atypical color scheme.
For Professor Yawn, a favorite was by Lionel Fenninger, “The Bird Cloud.”
…while Olivia most enjoyed the Hopper piece, “Schumann House”…
…and Michelle found a favorite in Jehan Vibert’s “Apotheosis of Louis-Adolphe Thiers.”
With an art collection as impressive as Harvard’s, it was impossible to not find art to like.
The Shot Heard Around the World
Our third educational leg of the day involved a mix of history and literature, which connected in ways we did not anticipate prior to our preparation for this trip. We drove to Lexington, MA, where the first battle of the Revolutionary War took place. Having seen Paul Revere’s House yesterday, we travelled somewhat in his footsteps today, visiting the Hancock-Clarke House.
This is the home where John Hancock and Samuel Adams were staying as guests on April 19, 1775, when they were roused from sleep as Paul Revere rode by shouting, “The Redcoats are Coming.” Indeed, much of the town was roused, answering the call to arms. Later that day, the Colonial Militia—Minutemen–faced off against the professional British Army on the town’s Lexington Green, where “the shot heard round the world” was fired. Eight colonists were killed, and while the British suffered no significant casualties, the colonists believed—correctly–that they had performed creditably.
To commemorate this “shot heard ’round the world,” Lexington has preserved the space on which the battle occurred and erected a statue in honor of the colonial soldiers.
While the militia did not offer impenetrable resistance, the action helped galvanize the colonists. When the British reached Concord, they faced more aggressive, reflecting the increased preparation, enhanced training, and stiffer resolve of the colonial militias.
Some two months later, when the British moved on Boston and the colonial redoubt on Bunker Hill, the colonists were ready. Twice the British charged the hill, faced extensive casualties, and were rebuffed. Only on the third advance did the British make significant ground, and the colonial militia withdrew in organized fashion. Ultimately, the British took the Hill but at a prohibitively expensive cost: 1,000 dead or wounded.
Today, this battle site is marked by a large obelisk monument that was originally erected in 1825, on the 50th anniversary of the battle. It is 221 feet high, composed of 3,000 stones, and it weighs more than 7,000 tons. Standing on a hill overlooking the City of Boston, however, it appears even more imposing, supplemented too by the symbolic weight of the event that it memorializes.
This struggle for independence had long-lasting ramifications, not only for democratic movements the world over, but also in the spheres of philosophy and literature. Born in the aftermath of this revolution, men such as Ralph Waldo Emerson, Henry David Thoreau, and Nathaniel Hawthorne would forge their own literary path. Emerson, born in 1803, explicitly called on Americans to break with their European traditions and draw upon the “beauty, convenience, grandeur of thought, and quaint expression” of the American systems and culture to forge a “transcendent destiny”.
Henry David Thoreau took Emerson’s advice, forsaking custom and, to a large extent, society, by leaving on July 4 to live at Walden Pond, where he would remain for two years, two months, and two days.
And with Nathaniel Hawthorne, the United States would produce its first great novelist. Drawing on the young country’s history, Hawthorne explored the world of Puritan New England and themes of how the past impinges on the present and, of course, the future.
Collectively, these writers helped lay the foundations for a distinctively American literature and philosophical thought. And it was forged in the same New England atmosphere as that which spurred the citizens to revolt against the British. Emerson, Thoreau, and Hawthorne lived in Massachusetts, in and around Boston, and remarkably, all three are buried within 100 feet of one another (and from Louisa May Alcott) on “Author’s Ridge,” in Sleepy Hollow Cemetery.
And much to our delight, we had the opportunity to visit Walden Pond. Although it has suffered from development in recent years, we were able to get some photos that captured some of the magic that must have drawn Thoreau to the site in the mid-19th century.
Walden Pond, 2025
This beauty and its corresponding history prompted us to pause and to reflect on the importance of self-reliance, in both government and literature.
Winding Down
We closed a productive day with more productivity: dinner at Fox & The Knife. Although Boston has a rich Italian culinary heritage, The Fox & The Knife has set itself a part. Indeed, Chef Karen Akunowicz, a James Beard Foundation “Best Chef” winner, is known as “The Queen of Boston Pasta.”
It wasn’t that we doubted this designation; we just wanted to confirm it. We took our spirited waiter’s advice on starters, trying fried chickpeas, which were wonderfully snackable; carne cruda crostini, which offered a riot of flavors, with steak tartare, leeks, and parmesan somehow creating a balanced, intriguing, and pleasurable taste; the bietola & burrata, which was creamy and flavorful; and the prosciutto e melone, with a melange of melons and tender, savory prosciutto.
For entrees, we split two items: the arrosto di maiale vignorola, a tender fried pork dish; and the tagliatelle bolognese, which featured “wild boar” complemented by thyme and the restaurant’s flavorful parmesan.
The restaurant, we confirmed, was as advertised: a wonderful Italian culinary experience, a lively atmosphere, and a taste of the best of Boston, straight from the Queen of Pasta. It was a great way to end the day.
The Sam Houston Memorial Museum and Presidential Library (SHMM) offers visitors a chance to learn about one of Texas’ most influential figures but its newest exhibition, The Many Faces of Sam Houston, goes a step further. This week, the LEAP Ambassadors visited the museum’s latest display, which explores how Houston’s image has been crafted, challenged, and reimagined over the past 200 years.
The exhibit, which opened July 3, explores how Houston’s public image has evolved over the past two centuries. Featuring portraits, daguerreotypes, sculptures, and illustrations, the collection shows Houston not just as a political leader, but as someone who understood the significance of image. That theatrical quality becomes immediately clear as visitors move through the gallery, seeing how Houston deliberately transformed his appearance throughout his life.
One of the featured pieces is a recently commissioned portrait by Huntsville-based artist Lee Jamison. Inspired by an early daguerreotype, Jamison portrays Houston’s larger-than-life persona in a vivid, contemporary style. Jamison’s work is familiar to many in the community; his mural located at the corner of 12th Street and Sam Houston Avenue in Downtown Huntsville has become a local landmark and tribute to Texas history.
The exhibition also includes a marble bust of Houston by sculptor Elisabet Ney, part of the museum’s permanent collection. Ney, a German-born artist celebrated for her contributions to Texas art and history, presents a thoughtful and dignified version of Houston.
She is also known for her monumental statue of Houston that stands in the Texas State Capitol, further solidifying her role in shaping the state’s visual history.
The photographer Matthew Brady was also famous for documenting history. Indeed, in addition to his famous Civil War photographs, Brady captured 18 of 19 presidents during the mid-to-late 19th century. His photograph Sam Houston, from 1850, is on display.
Another highlight is Texas artist Tom Lea’s design for the five-cent Sam Houston commemorative stamp. Though small in size, the stamp represents a different kind of legacy–one meant for daily use and mass circulation. Lea chose to depict Houston as he appeared during his presidency of the Republic of Texas, offering Americans a consistent and iconic image of their Texas hero with every letter they sent.
The exhibition also includes 19th-century book illustrations and ephemera that reveal how Houston was presented to various audiences throughout his life and long after. Each artistic decision–from clothing to posture to facial expression–reflects how artists and publishers aimed to emphasize particular traits, whether strength, wisdom, or statesmanship.
Taken as a whole, “The Many Faces of Sam Houston” illustrates how carefully Houston curated his own public image and how generations of artists have continued to reimagine him. From Brady’s realistic portrait to Jamison’s modern interpretation, each piece tells us something not only about Houston, but about the era and perspective in which it was created.
The exhibition will remain on view through August 31, 2025, in the Katy & E. Don Walker, Sr. Education Center’s exhibit gallery. It is free and open to the public, offering a rare opportunity to explore the intersection of art, history, and memory through the life and legacy of Sam Houston.
The John M. O’Quinn Law Building–the home of UH Law School–offers a grand yet inviting welcome to the study of law.
The modernist structure, designed by Shepley Bulfinch, greets visitors with a touch of the classical: Gerhard Marcks’ sculpture “Albertus Magnus,” who was the teacher of St. Thomas Aquinas, one of the greatest thinkers of history.
If that’s not enough to inspire the aspiring law student, then UH’s law program will probably do the trick, with specialties that pre-law students dream of pursuing. We, a mix of LEAP Ambassadors, Pre-Law Society members, and students in Professor Yawn’s “How to Win in the Courtroom” class, had the pleasure of witnessing, exploring, and envisioning our future during an amazing tour of the UH Law School.
Guided by a friendly and knowledgeable UH Ambassador, Justin Cheap, we experienced the school with a sense of comfort and relatability in a place that can initially seem so far beyond what we imagined.
The Law Center spans five floors, each designed with purpose and opportunity in mind. The fifth floor offers a quiet library space where students can focus, recharge, and enjoy breathtaking views of the Houston skyline. It serves as a reminder that achievement is within reach.
The fourth floor brings more energy, fostering collaboration through group study areas, access to professors, advanced coursework, bar exam preparation rooms, and even spaces to relax, nap, or grab a bite.
The third floor brought us into what a law school lecture room looks like. This floor has most of the upper level law student classrooms, and had an outdoor sitting area, perfect for fall weather fresh air. Interestingly, this floor also features an art piece by Charles Pebworth, an SHSU art professor who has many pieces at SHSU and the Wynne Home Arts Center.
The second floor houses most of the 1L and some 2L classrooms, along with a beautiful glass-ceiling section that proudly displays awards and accolades from the school’s long history since its founding in 1927. The first floor features the largest lecture hall in the Law Center, which can also be transformed into a fully functional courtroom. Remarkably, the Supreme Court has held sessions here, giving students a rare chance to witness the legal system at its highest level without ever leaving campus.
Of course, we learned more than just about the space; we also learned about the caliber of the school. UH is a top-65 program in the nation, ranking in the top 10 in Health Care law. It has more than a dozen programs and offers several joint degree options (including degrees in medicine and history!). With a tuition of about $37,000 a year, the school attracts an exclusive pool of law students: their entering class has a median GPA of 3.75 and a median LSAT of 161. With this talent, it’s no surprise that the first-time bar-passage rate is 86 percent.
From its modern architecture to its unparalleled opportunities for networking, education, and growth, the University of Houston Law Center proves that it is more than just a school, it is a launchpad for future leaders in the legal field.
Over the years, the World Affairs Council (WAC) has exposed LEAP students (and many other students) to new cultures, concepts, and speakers, greatly enriching our education. Last week, WAC did it again, offering an intriguing look at the culture of the Philippines in another of their “Culinary Passport” series featuring moderator Saege Anzueto; Dr. Riza Mauricio, a Professor at UTHealth Houston; Cybil Pallugna-Saenz, President of the Filipino American National Historical Society; Nathaniel Uy, President of the Filipino Graduate Student Association at Rice University; and artist Nixxio Castrillo.
The event was held at Houston’s Gerry’s Grill, a restaurant that originated in the Philippines, then migrated to California, before reaching its apex in Houston. With approximately 40 guests for this event alone, the restaurant provided a wonderful menu that included Lumpiang Shanghai (Filipino eggrolls), Chicken Skewers, (probably) Bistek Pinoy, Pancit Bami, and Chop Suey. The food was wonderful; the restaurant did a great job curating the food choices. Although everyone expressed satisfaction with all the meals, there was probably a consensus that the Bistek Pinoy was especially good, both tender and flavorful.
The speakers offered perspectives that were as diverse as the food. Professor Mauricio, not surprisingly, stressed the importance of Filipinos in health care, noting the large numbers and impressive contributions that Filipinos have made in nursing, particularly at the Texas Medical Center.
She noted with pride that May 13 of this year was named “Filipino Nurses Day,” while also noting with some regret that it took so long for these contributions to be recognized.
Pallugna-Saenz discussed the contributions the Filipino American National Historical Society has made in archiving Filipino contributions, while also expressing a desire to grow the organization.
Nixxio Castrillo made note of his approach to art, highlighting some of the materials he uses (copper, brass, stainless steel) which require a detailed, nuanced approach–much like that of fine jewelry–to achieve the desired effect.
And Nathaniel Uy spoke specifically to the young professionals in the audience, encouraging them to build a foundation for their future careers, take risks, and to treat the world “as [their] oyster. He knows of which he speaks.
When he left the Philippines to attend Rice, he scheduled a visit with the Filipino consulate. He wanted help adapting to a new country, but he also, as he put it, “just wanted the Consul to know who I was.”
As we have come to expect at WAC events, the evening was informative, interesting, and not least, tasty. We enjoyed meeting the distinguished speakers, other guests, and, of course, seeing our friends at the World Affairs Council.
It’s always fun at a World Affairs Council event, especially when food is involved, and tonight was no different.
Now, with my professional excursions at the Capitol finally coming to a close, I tried to make the most of my time in the state’s capital. It wouldn’t be a good LEAP experience if I hadn’t tried to make the most of my time.
With it being Juneteenth, it only made sense to begin with the state capitol’s Texas African American History Memorial by Ed Dwight. It is not only a beautiful statue, but a thought provoking one.
A Tour of University of Texas Campus
There’s no denying that UT’s campus is beautiful. But I don’t think I fully appreciated just how stunning it is until this visit. I knew they had a strong art presence, but I didn’t realize just how much until I found out there are five different suggested paths for an art walk. The variety alone is sort of insane.
I cherry-picked some of the pieces that I wanted to ensure I saw before I left, being that I couldn’t decide on a path.
Indeed, the theme for this part of the day was indecision.
I started at the Littlefield Fountain, which I learned will be part of a larger beautification effort to emulate the National Mall in D.C. One detail I especially loved: the statue of Athena was commissioned by a former UT Regent and sculpted by Pompeo Coppini—the same artist who designed Sam Houston’s grave in Huntsville. And no, I’m still not done talking about Huntsville.
What I liked most about this was that closer to the Main Building Tower, there is a statue of George Washington staring directly across to the Texas Capitol. Talk about a well-intentioned plan!
As I kept walking, I saw pieces by Mark di Suvero, Charles Umlauf (more on him later), and Willard Boepple, all of which added to the sense that this campus is part gallery, part institution.
I made my way over to the UT Law School. While I couldn’t go inside, I stumbled upon something unexpected: a statue of the school’s longest-serving dean—sculpted by none other than David Adickes! It was a comforting, serendipitous moment.
The law school path is no joke, and with so much uncertainty, taking the LSAT can feel like this unsurmountable force that tests your capabilities as an intellectual. I am trying to let that feeling pass, and focus on what matters, which is my commitment to serving and learning in everything I do. It might be a grueling path, but I imagine it’s a meaningful one. And while the statue couldn’t talk, I took it as a gentle nudge to keep pushing forward.
Taquero Mucho Austin
I do have a weird affinity for the color pink—but even I wasn’t prepared for Taquero Mucho. This place is very pink. It came highly recommended by a former LEAP ambassador, and after seeing it in Texas Highways, I had to give it a try.
I started with a flight of salsas (all good), paired with a slightly-magenta Jamaica, and went with a taco wrapped in a pink tortilla and a side of elote.
I thought it was pretty good, and definitely really pink.
Umlauf Sculpture Garden
This was, without question, one of the highlights of the trip. I hadn’t really heard of Charles Umlauf before spotting one of his pieces near UT Law, but after that, I was curious. The garden itself is tucked away in a quiet, green pocket of the city, and it just works so well with his style—there’s something peaceful about seeing his sculptures in a setting that doesn’t compete for your attention.
What I noticed almost immediately was how many of his figures seem to be looking upward—heads tilted, eyes cast toward the sky.
I’d seen that same pose earlier in The Family near the Business School and The Torch Bearers on campus (which also had smaller versions here in the garden). I couldn’t tell exactly what it meant, but there was clearly some intention behind it. It felt reflective, maybe even spiritual, though it wasn’t heavy-handed.
Some of my favorites were The Kiss, Prometheus, and The Poetess—each had its own tone, but they all fit into the broader theme of searching or reaching toward something. I found out later that Umlauf taught at UT for decades and leaned into themes like faith, human connection, and morality, so maybe that upward gaze wasn’t accidental after all.
Toward the end of my visit, I saw one statue that broke the pattern. Instead of looking up, this figure was looking down—almost like she was weighed down by something. She wasn’t in the center of the garden but off to the side near the parking lot, which made the whole thing feel even more intentional. It stood out, so I checked the placard—and of course, it was Eve with Apple.
I couldn’t help but feel giddy about that.. I’m not claiming to have “decoded” anything profound, but it was one of those moments that made the visit so pleasant to me.
There’s something satisfying about taking things in slowly and letting your mind wander a bit. I didn’t expect to enjoy the Umlauf Garden as much as I did, but it turned out to be exactly the kind of quiet, thoughtful stop I didn’t know I needed.
This past month, I toured the O’Henry Home. Upon entering, I was greeted by Spike Gillespie, a kind and knowledgeable staff member from the City of Austin’s Museums and Cultural Programs. She shared key details about William Sydney Porter’s life, explaining that he lived in this house from 1884 to 1894 before fleeing to Honduras due to corruption allegations at his workplace, the First National Bank of Austin. A few years later, he returned to the U.S. under an alias—O’Henry—the pen name that would bring him literary fame.
The small home consists of three main rooms: the living room…
…the bedroom…
…and O. Henry’s office.
As I walked through, I enjoyed learning fascinating tidbits about his life and work. His experience drafting maps at the General Land Office in Austin resonated with me, as I’ve encountered the GLO while assisting the Land and Resource Committee in my office.
Although modern technology has replaced hand-drawn maps, I appreciated the small connection I felt while standing in O’Henry’s office.
As I continued walking through the home, I found myself amused with framed sketches located right outside O’Henry’s office. Later, Spike informed me that during his lifetime, O’Henry became a self-taught artist, focusing largely on political cartoons, which were featured in The Rolling Stone magazine. Most of his artwork throughout the home feature a mixture of political cartoons and the life of American settlers.
Spike also shared insights into how his time in Austin shaped his storytelling. Many of his short stories reflect themes of redemption, irony, and human nature, qualities that may have been influenced by his own struggles. His most famous work, “The Gift of the Magi,” showcases his signature twist endings, a style that would make him one of the most celebrated short story writers in American literature.
Beyond his literary contributions, O’Henry’s influence on Austin is still evident. His home, now preserved as a museum, serves as a reminder of the city’s rich cultural history.
Creative writing workshops hosted by individuals like Spike encourage Austinites to expand their writing skills and explore writing techniques utilized by famous writers such as O’Henry.
Visiting the O’ Henry Home provided me with insight that was much greater than a historical tour, it was a glimpse into the life of a man who turned adversities into art, which brought people together. His legacy lives on not only in his stories but also in the continued appreciation of his wit and literary style.
Center for Law, Engagement, and Politics 