Being in Denver, we felt compelled to visit Rocky Mountain National Park on an off day, so we set out early to do just that! Along the way, we visited the Pearl Street Mall in Boulder to explore the local shops. One store we stopped at was the Boulder Bookstore, where Olivia purchased a notebook, a copy of Martyr! by Kaveh Akbar, and a set of beautiful notecards. It was an excellent bookstore, and I am sure we all wished we had more time to explore it.
Nearby, we saw the Boulder County Court House, a building designed in the art deco style.
Finally, to prepare for our trip, we went to a local market in Lyons called St. Vrain Market, Deli, and Bakery. At the deli, we picked up sandwiches to enjoy on the mountain.
Rocky Mountain National Park
by Olivia Discon
The trails were a patchwork of ice and untouched snow, the lakes frozen over into eerie stillness. A single blue Stellar’s jay flitted between bare branches, watching us with the kind of judgment only nature can provide.
Rocky Mountain National Park in winter is a mix of beauty and betrayal.
The meadows stretched wide and open, peaceful and quiet under the weight of the season.
Trails wove through icy patches and steep layers of snow. Every step was a guessing game—solid ground or sudden sinkhole?
We crunched through the meadows, the wind howling low across the open expanse, until we reached the rocks.
That’s when things escalated.
Professor Yawn and I decided, in our infinite wisdom, that we should climb them. Not just once. Not just some rocks. No, we scaled rock faces like mountain goats who had lost all sense of self-preservation.
One climb turned into another, and before we knew it, we were standing at a questionable height, looking out over the vastness of the park.
And that’s when we heard it.
A faint, disembodied voice from below.
It was Chrissy.
From where we stood, she was just a tiny figure, barely visible, shouting up at us as if we had ascended into some divine realm. The wind carried our voices down to her, but to her ears, it must have sounded like the echoes of gods speaking from the mountaintops. We, of course, did not correct this perception.
“Chrissy, we see all,” I replied, as if we had unlocked some kind of mountain-wisdom. “We are everywhere and nowhere.”
She was not impressed. But she did eventually find her way up.
And we were able to share in the beautiful views.
We eventually made our way back down, the snow still unpredictable beneath our feet, the air crisp and unforgiving.
But it was as beautiful as it was unforgiving.
And we explored that beauty by circling the perimeter of Sprague Lake (on the East side of the Park, where it was much snowier)….
Note: Chrissy and Olivia in Distance
…where we witnesses to a proposal!
The winds were brutal, but the scenery was just compensation.
And we ultimately enjoyed our time on the Lake–so much so that we decided to go to another!
The Brutality – Scenery tension was a bit more on the side of Brutality at Bear Lake. The snows were deeper, so much so that the trail was indiscernible, except for the occasional signs that were almost buried in the snow.
Note “Bierstadt Lake,” Named for Artist Albert Bierstadt
Few people were on the trails, for good reason.
But we ventured on, trudging through the snow, around rocks, and even on the frozen lake!
It was quite a different experience than we were accustomed to in Texas on spring break.
As we made additional forays into the park, we made additional discoveries, such as deer (we ended up seeing almost 50).
On one case, when returning to the van, Stephanie interjected, saying, “Moose. Don’t step any further.”
Little did we know, there were two of them—the first that Chrissy and I had ever seen.
They moved through the trees, pausing only to munch on whatever food they could find amidst the snow. Later, on our drive out, we saw even more moose, casually grazing along the roadside. Professor Yawn and Chrissy, feeling adventurous, hopped out to get closer for photos. Stephanie and I, however, stayed in the car, content with admiring from a safe (and smart) distance.
Despite the unpredictability of nature, we thoroughly enjoyed Rocky Mountain National Park.
It became, by a wide margin, our favorite National Park experience. It was immediately understood why painters and romantic poets expressed the sense of awe provided by America’s vast and inspiring landscape.
When LEAP Ambassadors travel, they aim to make the most of it, unsure of when they might be able to return. Today exemplified that spirit, as we tried interesting food, dropped in to our ACJS Conference site, roamed the Denver Public Library, toured the Clyfford Still Museum, explored the Colorado State Capitol Building, and visited a National Wildlife Refuge.
Denver Public Library
The Denver Public Library is not only the home of thousands of books, ideaLAB Makerspaces, and research materials, but it also owns some impressive art, and that is one of the major reasons we stopped by.
Along the way, we saw some impressive pieces, such as a Frederic Remington…
…but we also had a chance to see the work of artists new to us, such as Marie McFarland, Chase Varney, and, especially, Otto Kuhler.
Perhaps most impressive among the paintings was an Albert Bierstadt!
Although we also just loved some of the spaces, such as one of the reading rooms…
Our experience suggests that a robust library system across a wide variety of services benefits the community greatly. They promote literacy; allow for research in the community, which foster a sense of community identity; if done correctly, they can beautify the community; and, perhaps most important, they bring a community together. And this is what we witnessed in Denver: a friendly staff, a beautiful interior–further beautified by the art; and a diverse group of users, which included us!
Clyfford Still Museum
The Clyfford Still Museum gave us a chance to see the evolution of an artist who refused to conform to the art world’s expectations. The galleries were arranged to show the progression of his work, starting with his early pieces, which were more representative and realistic, before gradually shifting toward abstraction.
I found his earlier works particularly interesting, especially the ones featuring figures with large hands and elongated faces.
While I’m still not entirely sure what to make of them, they seem to reflect struggle and resilience, possibly tied to the hardships of the Great Depression.
What stood out to me the most, though, was Still’s complete rejection of the art industry. He despised galleries, museums, and critics, believing they distorted the meaning of art and prioritized profit over artistic integrity. He was known to pull out of exhibitions and refused to title his paintings, even going so far as to remove preexisting titles to prevent outside interpretation.
His frustration was clear in a statement he made in 1971: “I am deeply outraged that my entire life is being interpreted as a long struggle to be recognized by some damn fool art critics or to be sold successfully in the galleries or even to find their way into art museums because I consider these institutions to be corrupt in the purpose and their meaning and their effect on the artist and society.”
One of the more unexpected features of the museum was the use of canvas screens to partially cover certain pieces, allowing them to be revealed while also being preserved.
As we moved through the galleries, we could see how Still’s work became more abstract and how much control he maintained over his legacy.
Even after his death, his wishes shaped how his art was displayed and handled. Unlike many of his peers, his work wasn’t scattered across various museums or private collections—it was kept together, exactly as he intended. He may have been a particular man, but he was also a particularly fascinating man.
Colorado State Capitol Building
by Chrissy Biello
The Colorado State Capitol took fifteen years to complete, finishing in 1901 at a cost of nearly three million dollars. Despite its distance from Texas, the building evokes a sense of recognition among many Texas visitors. This familiarity comes from its design by Elijah E. Myers, the same architect who designed the Texas State Capitol. In fact, Myers’ influence extends beyond these two states, as he also designed the Michigan State Capitol in Lansing.
Walking into the building, visitors can see many features that connect it to significant landmarks across the country.
Moreover, the building showcases rare Colorado Rose Onyx, a pink-hued stone found only in a quarry near Beulah in Pueblo County. Nearly the entire known supply was used in the Capitol’s construction, making it the only building in the world to feature this material.
For sci-fi fans, one particular design in the Rose Onyx resembles the likeness of Princess Leia‘s hair from Star Wars…
And one interesting detail for those interested in city government is that John Hickenlooper, the 42nd Governor of Colorado, was the mayor of Denver from 2003 to 2011. His gubernatorial portrait stands out dramatically among the gallery of solemn official paintings in the West Foyer. Instead of opting for a conventional formal pose, Hickenlooper is captured atop the dome of the Capitol with the Denver City and County Building behind him, dressed casually in a plaid shirt.
When touring the Capitol, one will also notice how some of the building’s design nods to the British Parliamentary system. The Senate chamber is filled with red-colored stencils on the wall, while the House features green.
In the Senate, there are multiple stained glass portraits of some of the state’s most influential figures. Ruth Stockton, the first woman to serve as President pro tem of the Senate, is one that is frequently mentioned. She made history not only by being the first woman in that role but also by serving longer than any other woman in the legislature (24 years).
While the Senate has several stained glass portraits, the House Chamber has just one: a stained glass portrait of Barney L. Ford. Ford was an escaped slave who became a civil rights leader and fought for voting rights for African Americans in Colorado.
The ending highlight of touring the Colorado State Capitol is the opportunity to go up to the dome.
However, you will need to brace yourself for the 99-step climb, which is also pretty steep.
From this elevated vantage point, the panoramic view encompasses significant landmarks throughout the city.
Straight ahead, one can spot the Denver City and County Building featured in John Hickenlooper’s gubernatorial portrait.
To the left, one can see the Colorado Supreme Court building. Most notably, the Rocky Mountains can be seen in the distance, providing a stunning backdrop that highlights Denver’s unique geographical setting.
Rocky Mountain Arsenal National Park
To end the day on an even higher note of adventure, we headed eight miles northwest of Denver, where forty years ago, the United States Army operated a chemical weapons manufacturing plant—scary stuff. After an expensive clean-up process, the site is now the Rocky Mountain Arsenal National Wildlife Refuge, an expanse of land that hosts more then 330 species of animal.
We did not see all of those species, but we saw a sufficient amount to make our afternoon.
We saw rabbits and deer. We have, of course, seen these species previously, but on this day we saw more than 60 deer on the eleven-mile driving tour!
Moreover, we saw some species that, for us, were first-time spottings. A favorite was Prairie Dogs, which we saw scurrying from the sound of our vehicle, barking a warning to their fellow Dogs, or simply going about their business of eating. They were a delight.
We also saw several species of birds, including the ever-present Canadian Geese…
…Robins, Red-Tailed Hawks, Canvasbacks, a Tri-Colored Heron, Northern Shovelers, European Starlings, Red-Winged Blackbirds, and a murder of crows–one of which was carrying a bone.
That may not sound exciting, but we also saw a Bald Eagle (Chrissy’s first), , numerous Magpies (first for both Chrissy and Olivia), and three Wild Turkeys (another first for both Chrissy and Olivia).
Of course, the big find was the herd of Bison. Numbering more than 100, they spent most of their time eating, but they were surrounded by some amazing scenery, as they roamed the prairies with the towering and snow-capped Rocky Mountains in the background.
We even saw part of the herd begin to run, kicking up dust all the way, as they rejoined part of the herd from which they had separated. It was a majestic sight at a majestic site.
As we headed to the close of the wildlife drive, we were able to spot the Denver skyline framed against the beautiful Rocky Mountains.
Tocabe
Our final stop of this long and adventurous involved additional adventure: dinner. Keeping with the LEAP tradition of exploring food consistent with the cultures we are visiting and/or learning about, we decided to eat at Tocabe, which is co-owned by a member of the Osage Nation, and which bills itself as a restaurant offering meals that tell the stories “of our American Indian culture through native-sourced recipes and ingredients.”
We tried a variety of dishes and did some sharing, hoping to get sampling of their entire menu. Professor Yawn tried the Indian Fry Bread, stuffed with shredded Bison; Olivia opted for the chicken; and Chrissy explored the ground Bison; and we also ordered a bowl of Bison chili and, for desert, we tried Wojapi with Indian Fry Bread (with cinnamon and sugar, of course).
It was a fulfilling way to end the day, providing insight into the culinary traditions of Native Americans, offering a new food experience, and whetting our appetite for more Bison and Wojapi.
Two LEAP Ambassadors, Chrissy Biello and Olivia Discon, are presenting at their first conference, the Academy of Criminal Justice Sciences conference in Denver, CO. There is a certain amount of dread associated with your first formal academic conference, and Biello and Discon are not immune from such anxieties. Fortunately, having arrived a day early to the conference–LEAP Ambassadors are punctual–they had a day to prepare and to explore the mile-high city, having as much food and fun as they could bear.
Coffee:
Being coffee fiends, we explored two coffee shops on our first day in Denver. The first, “Dandy Lion Coffee,” is a coffee and boutique plant shop. While we admit that we are not exactly world travelers, we suspect that this is not a common combination. But it works in this charming cafe, which is located in the Park Hill neighborhood of Denver.
The shop’s plants are warm and colorful, and they add a vibrant, down-home quality that is reinforced by the friendly and professional staff.
The warm and welcoming ambiance had its desired effect. The store was filled with customers, some speaking with each other, some mixing in small groups, and others doing their own thing, but they all exuded a comfort borne of an environment that was cozy without being crowded.
While the shop was pleasing, we were there for the coffee. And it, too, delivered. With an enormously helpful and friendly barista named Taylor leading the way, we tried an “everything croissant,” which was excellent, and we sampled a chocolate croissant–which was excellent and chocolate.
The drip coffee was very good, and the iced vanilla latte, which is what the store is famous for, was very, very good.
This was the perfect pick-me-up spot for what would prove to be a long day. Also, please note that while the pronunciation of the cafe suggests a weed, the name of the coffee-plant shop is referring to a well-dressed king of the jungle–monocle and all.
Needing an afternoon burst of energy and a place to work, we also visited Novo Coffee, a third-wave coffee shop indigenous to Denver. We each enjoyed a vanilla latte and settled into a cozy and productive atmosphere, where the hum of conversations and the scent of freshly brewed coffee fueled our focus. Novo offered just the right balance—bustling enough to be lively but quiet enough to get some work done.
Food
After being on the road for a couple of days and eating like scavengers in a desert, we made the most of a city filled with restaurants. For lunch, we had Giordano’s Pizza, an Italian eatery on the famous 16th-Street (pedestrian) Mall in Denver.
With garlic bread and a “meat and more meat” pizza, we may have overdone it.
This did not, however, get in the way of us finishing the pizza and the bread sticks. And, in our defense, it did not get in the way of us also getting some work done and, several hours later, searching for a hearty dinner to bookend our day of culinary adventures.
Dinner took us to the world of Asian cuisine in the form of Chopstickers, where we sampled chicken potstickers, soup dumplings, and edamame. The food was excellent, though one of us (who shall remain nameless) had a slight mishap that led to an unfortunate spill. Let’s just say soup dumplings live up to their name. Still, no mess could ruin the experience, and we left satisfied, if slightly damp.
Exploration
With a conference presentation approaching (have we mentioned that?) and with us impersonating foodies, we didn’t have a whole lot of time for exploration. But we did manage to walk almost half-a-mile of the 16th-Street Mall, venture down many other streets, and see a bit of what Denver has to offer.
It is a very walkable city. Indeed, it’s downtown and capitol hill area have a 94 walkability score, and at least one publication ranks Denver second in walkability, trailing only New York City. Interestingly, this means we have walked the two most walkable cities in the United States in the past two months!
We also saw our share of critters. With a lot of food establishments and many pedestrians, there are also a lot of pigeons. Generally speaking, they are not scared of humans. We were also visited by some aggressive squirrels. One squirrel actually ran a circle around us, as if he was determined to singlehandedly surround us and demand food–despite already having a nut in his mouth!
By far the most interesting animal we encountered, however, was a blue bear.
As fearsome as he looks from below, he is rather tame and endearing. He simply wants to see what the humans are doing in the Colorado Convention Center.
The bear, a creation of the late artist (and art professor) Lawrence Argent, is titled “I See What You Mean” and was installed in Denver in 2005. Over the past two decades, he has become a symbol of Denver.
He certainly brought a smile to our faces, and with his whimsical blue color, curiosity, and potential for ferocity, he provided just the attitude we were looking for to approach our first-ever conference.
The LEAP Ambassadors enjoyed a six-day tour of the East Coast as part of their “Democracy Tour.” During this tour, the students had a chance to visit more than half a dozen art museums, James Beard award winning restaurants, and many historic sites. What follows is their favorites from their experiences.
Favorite Restaurants:
Lehja’s in Richmond received the most votes, with all of the food receiving high marks from the diners. The James Beard nominations appear justified!
Casa Mexico in Philadelphia was a hit among the students, with the barbacoa being particularly popular. This was an altogether pleasant dining experience in an interesting and busy neighborhood in Philadelphia. Chef Christina Martinez was named “Best Chef” in the mid-Atlantic region in 2022 by the James Beard Foundation.
Metzger’s Bar and Butchery was perhaps the most interesting and innovative of the restaurants we visited. While the pork schnitzel was the favorite entree, the “squash sundae,” was the favorite dessert and the biggest surprise.
Ambassadors also found favorites in Katz’s Deli in New York, a restaurant world-famous for its pastrami.
And, of course, we also enjoyed Jim’s South St., which specializes in Philly Cheesesteaks.
FavoriteArt Museum: Olivia and Chrissy visited four art museums in New York, and they split on their favorite, with Chrissy favoring The Whitney…
…while Olivia resisted picking a favorite and, instead, picked a top two: The Met and MOMA. She did, however, have a favorite: The Lovers.
Although smaller and less heralded than its New York and Philadelphia counterparts, the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts was one of the clear favorites among the group.
The favorites of the group reflected the diversity of the art in the Museum’s collection.
Of course, the most famous paintings among the NY, Philadelphia, and VA museums were also popular among the Ambassadors.
Finally, the group also greatly enjoyed seeing Philadelphia City Hall, the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, and the Virginia Capitol Building. For Cinthia, Olivia, and Michelle, it marked the third–the complete collection–of extant Jefferson designs in the world.
While the Ambassadors are always happy to get back to Huntsville and SHSU (or, this semester, Austin and SHSU), they left the east coast with a lot of memories, new-found knowledge, and much nostalgia.
This was–we thought–our last day, and we were determined to enjoy it! In that spirit, we had planned out a day of history and art, with a tour of the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts, the Capitol, the Old City Hall, the Edgar Allan Poe Museum, and some interesting restaurants.
Lehja Indian Restaurant
Saara Maknojia
Keeping our streak alive of eating at (affordable) James Beard nominated restaurants, LEAP Ambassadors stopped by Lehja, a contemporary take on Indian food. Indian food is not a foreign concept for the Ambassadors so knowing the classics we ordered a plate of aloo (potato) samosas.
For a change we also experienced a new dish, as our server recommended the Chef’s Daily Selection, Chaat Du Jou. The chaat consisted of flashed fried curry leaves with various species, topped with a tangy tamarind yogurt chutney, paired with refreshing pomegranate seeds. Although both appetizers were tasty, the consensus favored the Chaat Du Jou!
Olivia, being the biryani connoisseur, ordered the classic chicken biryani, which is additionally paired with raita, a spiced yogurt sauce.
Bringing out the contemporary aspect of Lehja, Cinthia and Michelle ordered a plate of Tandoori Chicken Tikka. Traditionally, chicken thighs are marinated in yogurt with various tandoori spiced to bring out a smoked flavor when grilled. Lehja, however uses chicken breasts and serves with a platter of grilled market vegetables. To my surprise Cinthia, who is not the biggest fan of spicy food enjoyed the chicken tikka without breaking a sweat.
The Regional Classics for Lehja’s include various curry dishes. I found the Kofta Chaman Dilkhush appetizing, mainly because the term “Dilkhush” refers to a happy heart and what better way to leave a restaurant than with a happy heart! The vegetable kofta’s in this dish were perfectly fried with a soft potato filling, complementing the cashew-tomato curry base. Kicking the spice level up a notch, I found spice level three to best for this hearty meal.
Professor Yawn and Stephanie also tried a Regional Classic dish, the spicy garlic, ginger, and chilly based curry included tender goat meat which fell right off the bone. Eating the meal in a traditional Indian fashion way, we shared our entrees with each other to fully taste the flavor spectrum and enjoy the company of one another.
Eating Indian food always makes me personally happy, but it is always a much better experience when those around you have the willingness to try new foods to enhance their understanding of cultures, apart from theirs. Lehja’s serves its purpose as a contemporary Indian restaurant but also keeps its traditional roots with the hospitality given to us during our visit. We are grateful to have a shared experience at yet another James Beard nominated restaurant.
Virginia State Capitol Building
by Saara Maknojia
Marking off yet another Capitol building, LEAP Ambassadors spent the afternoon touring the Virginia State Capitol. Rich with history, the Virginia Capitol reflects the vision of Thomas Jefferson, who was the primary architect for the structure.
Our tour guide, Mrs. Snellings, took us through the Museum, showcasing the wonderful architecture, functions, and art. In the Rotunda, is a Jean-Antoine Houdon sculpture of George Washington.
This sculpture is considered the best likeness of Washington. Houdon took a plaster cast of the first President’s face and exact measurements of his body–no other statue of Washington reflects this level of detail.
We had a chance to peek into the House Chambers…
…and we also had a chance to visit, and spend more time in, the Old House Chambers, the largest room in the structure.
The center of the room features a ten-pound mace, made from solid silver with a 24-karat gold finish. Also gracing the room are busts of Chief Justice John Marshall and Patrick Henry, both of whom served in the VA House of Delegates.
On the opposite side of the room out of reach of our cameras, are busts of Sam Houston (who was born in Virginia) and Cyrus Hall McCormick (born in the same county as Sam Houston!).
This room also hosted the 1807 trial of Aron Burr, who was charged with treason. As Chief Justice of the United States Supreme Court, John Marshall returned to the building in which he once served as Representative, and he presided over the trial.
Walking into the Old Senate Chambers, we noticed many artworks on the walls. One piece that Mrs. Snellings highlighted was a painting of Pocahontas.
She explained the true history behind her story, correcting the common myth that Pocahontas was married to Captain John Smith (also pictured in the room).
In fact, she was married to John Rolfe, a tobacco planter.
Next, Mrs. Snellings directed our attention to the back of the room, where she pointed at a painting by Griffith Bailey Coale. The painting depicted three ships: the Susan Constant, the Godspeed, and the Discovery. Mrs. Snellings explained that this scene represented the arrival of these ships in 1607, marking the beginning of the first permanent English settlement in America at Jamestown, Virginia. She pointed out the flags atop the ships, noting that they symbolized the United Kingdom.
The largest painting in the room, by Eugene Louis Lami titled Storming a Redoubt at Yorktown captures the Battle of Yorktown 1781, as British Troops approach the American forces. Mrs. Snellings pointed to a small figure in the painting and asked if we had any guesses for who it might be. After waiting for a response, she exclaimed with excitement, “It’s General George Washington!”
The architectural features of the building were beautiful, from the central rotunda…
…and the stairwell, which at one time, housed a steam-powered elevator.
Although our time at the Capitol was brief, we left with a valuable history lesson about the foundations of American democracy and the fight for independence! We would like to thank our tour guide, Mrs. Snellings, for providing a fantastic tour and sharing insights that many of us had not known before.
Old City Hall
Also on the Capitol Square–with the Capitol and Executive Mansion–is the old City Hall, a Gothic Revival Structure built in 1894.
For more than seven centuries, it housed city offices and courts, but as early as the 1920s, there were calls to tear down this beautiful structure and replace it with a more modern city hall. These calls were partially heeded in the 1970s, when a new City Hall was built, but, thankfully, the Historic Richmond Foundation led efforts to save it. The structure re-opened in the 1980s and in the 2010s, the building was restored to its original look–a restoration that required approval from the Virginia Department of Historic Resources, Architecture Review Board, and Capitol Square Preservation Council.
At 30,000 square feet, it remains the largest granite building in Richmond, while also being the city’s finest example of Gothic architecture.
It was designed by architect Elijah Myers, who also designed the TX Capitol building (where three of the LEAP Ambassadors currently work) and the Colorado Capitol Building (which two of the Ambassadors will visit in March), as well as the capitol buildings of Utah, Idaho, and Michigan.
Today, the structure is used for state offices, and only the first floor is accessible to visitors.
But even a restricted visit is worth it for the view of the impressive clock tower on the exterior of the building, the four-story atrium…
…detailed faux-graining of the bases of the Corinthian columns…
…and the exquisite detailing of the interior.
Virginia Museum of Fine Arts
by Michelle Cardenas
The Virginia Museum of Fine Arts (VMFA) offered an experience that was both exciting and full of discovery. Originally opened in 1936, the museum has continued to evolve, with a major renovation in 2010 and plans for further expansion to accommodate even more incredible works of art. The museum’s location carries historical significance as well, sitting on what was once a Confederate camp, adding another layer of depth to our visit.
Instead of our usual self-guided exploration, we opted for a highlights tour, which provided an excellent overview of the museum’s diverse collection. Before even stepping inside, we were captivated by the stunning outdoor sculptures by renowned artists such as Dale Chihuly and Henry Moore, which set the tone for what was to come.
One of the standout sections for me was the American Art collection, where I was particularly drawn to Moonlight in Yosemite by Albert Bierstadt. Seeing one of his pieces with muted colors–almost black and white in places–was unexpected and fascinating, offering a different perspective on his usual style.
Another highlight was the Fabergé collection, featuring beautifully intricate Easter eggs that showcased incredible craftsmanship and history.
As we continued through the museum, we encountered works by well-known artists such as John Roberts, Kehinde Wiley, Ellsworth Kelly, Andy Warhol, Van Gogh, Degas, and Monet. Recognizing these names and seeing their masterpieces up close is incredibly rewarding—especially when I think back to when I first started and hardly knew any artists at all.
Each of us found pieces that resonated on a personal level. Cinthia was drawn to Edward Hopper’s House at Dusk, appreciating its quiet and reflective atmosphere. Olivia enjoyed the works of Andrew Wyeth, admiring his detailed and emotional portrayals.
Saara was captivated by Edwin Lord Weeks’ The Hour of Prayer at Moti Masjid…
…which stood out due to its rich colors and cultural depth. Chrissy’s favorite was John Singer Sargent’s The Sketchers, which impressed her with its lively and spontaneous feel.
Visiting museums like the VMFA is always a rewarding experience. No matter how many we explore, there’s always something new to learn and appreciate. Each visit offers a chance to see the world through different perspectives, and we’re grateful for the opportunity to continue discovering and growing through art.
The Poe Museum
by Chrissy Biello
Mystery, Madness, and Mayhem, three words that many would use to describe Edgar Allan Poe. Nevermore, that might not be the full story….
Edgar Allan Poe is known by many as an American short story writer and poet. His themes largely center around darkness, such as death, despair, and fear. He is widely credited with pioneering the modern detective story and significantly contributing to the emerging genre of science fiction.
Today, we had the chance to visit his home in Virginia, where we learned much about him. The museum began on a particularly somber note, discussing how his mother passed away when Poe was only two years old, leaving him orphaned.
Upon seeing a coffin, Olivia could not resist the urge to climb in. Surprisingly, it fit her perfectly, not to mention befitting her increasingly pallid complexion!
To give you some context, this coffin was placed here to symbolize the intense fear people in Poe’s era had of being buried alive. Due to this widespread anxiety, special coffins were designed with a mechanism that allowed the occupant to ring a bell from inside to call for help. However, when Olivia got inside, she chose not to ring the bell…
One aspect of the exhibit that I found especially intriguing was the pocket watch that Poe heard while writing “The Tell-Tale Heart.” I have always found this short story engaging and mysterious, as I tend to be drawn to darker subjects.
And, there has been considerable debate surrounding whether Poe was the artist of a watercolor painting or simply the gifter. The painting, which depicts a weeping woman, is quite interesting to observe. I appreciated the detailed wrinkles in her dress and the overall droopy appearance of the painting.
Another fascinating mystery in the museum concerns Poe’s hair. After his death, locks of his hair were cut from his head. Although the cause of his death remains a mystery, many have attempted to solve it. In 2002, a sample of his hair was analyzed, revealing the presence of many heavy metals, which were believed to have contributed to his death.
The museum also shed light on Poe’s posthumous reputation, largely shaped by his adversary, Rufus Griswold. Griswold painted Poe as a madman and drunkard in a posthumous biography. Ironically, this portrayal fueled Poe’s fame, but as mentioned earlier, we learned that Poe may not have been as crazy as everyone believed, leaving his legacy steeped in mystery and intrigue.
Before leaving the museum, we visited an upstairs section of the house featuring paintings. One painting, in particular, was quite amusing. It was titled Vincent Van Poe by Chris King and depicted Starry Night in the background, with Poe, a black cat, and a raven in the foreground.
As a fan of Poe, I thoroughly enjoyed the museum, especially since it was Poe’s actual home. It was also delightful to see a black cat, aptly named Edgar, moving around the building, setting the perfect atmosphere for reading and learning about Poe!
Metzger Bar and Butchery
For our last planned dinner of the trip, we opted for Metzger Bar and Butchery, whose chef, Brittany Anderson, is a two-time James Beard semi-finalist.
We started the evening with a recommendation of our server, the Charred Cabbage, whose menu description was enigmatic: “Miso Bagna Cauda, Cured Egg, Gremolata, Calabrian Chili.” Whatever it was, it was great! We also had a bread baked in house (“cottage-cheese rolls”), which came with house-made butter adorned with radish slices.
Three of our party went with the Pork Schnitzel, and the general consensus was that this was the best dish available. But we also tried the Chicken and the Steak, and all of it was excellent.
Although we were full, we were willingly talked into dessert, which included an Olive Oil Cake, the Heirloom Corn Funnel Cake, and a Honeynut Squash Sundae. The latter dessert made us pause–a squash sundae? But it was the favorite of the group!
It was a rich and fulfilling end to a busy and rewarding day.
With a full day in Philadelphia ahead of us, LEAP students ventured into town this morning to explore the beautiful public art around the city. Our first stop, of course, had to begin with Philadelphia City Hall, the largest in the nation! Afterall, this eye-catching building is grounded in one of the most historical states. The building itself is noticeable from many miles away, with a statue of William Penn, founder of Pennsylvania. The statue, sculpted by Alexander Milne Calder (Not to be confused with contemporary abstract artist Alexander “Sandy” Calder), brings not only the state’s historical aspect to the City Hall, but also connects other notable pieces of artwork to the artist.
Ambassadors in front of City Hall (and Oldenburg Sculpture)
Just a short stroll down Logan Square, we encountered Three Discs, One Lacking by Sandy Calder, grandson of Milne. Further down the Benjamin Franklin Parkway, the Calder legacy continues with the Swann Memorial Fountain, which was created by Alexander Stirling Calder, the father of Sandy Calder. These pieces not only highlight the artistic legacy of the Calder family but also illustrate how thoughtful city planning can weave art into the very fabric of a community. The alignment of these sculptures offered us a unique opportunity to reflect on how art connects generations and transforms public spaces.
As we continued exploring Logan Square, a lovely red caught the eye of many. Surely enough, we were met with yet another LOVE sculpture by Robert Indiana!
“LOVE,” by Robert Indiana
By the end of the day, we’d spotted three of Indiana’s works, including the AMOR sculpture, which added a multilingual flair to the city’s celebration of brotherly love.
“Amor,” by Robert Indiana
One artist that I was unfamiliar of during this tour was Zenos Frudakis. His sculpture Freedom, however, quickly became my favorite. The theatrical movement of the statues and the intricate details within each sculpture made every piece a part of a larger narrative, expressing an individual’s desire to abandon a life of comfort in pursuit of freedom.
“Freedom,” by Zenos Frudakis
We also encountered a mural by Richard Haas, another artist familiar to LEAP students. Keeping his famous trompe l’oeil style, the piece depicted Benjamin Franklin and William Penn and spans an entire wall to capture the essence of Philadelphia’s historical and cultural heritage.
Richard Haas Mural, 2300 Chestnut
Haas even drew inspiration from the Benjamin Franklin Statue by John Boyle, located on the University of Pennsylvania campus.
Philadelphia’s public art left us with a deeper appreciation for the city’s vibrant cultural identity. From the Calder family’s generational influence to the iconic works by Indiana, Frudakis, and Haas, each piece added a layer of history, creativity, and connection to our journey. By the end of the day, we realized that the city itself is a canvas, where every corner invites reflection and inspiration.
Lunch at Casa Mexicoand South Philly Barbacoa
by Israel Gallegos
For our much-needed lunch break, we went to Casa Mexico and South Philly Barbacoa, a joint restaurant heading towards the southern part of Philadelphia. The restaurant’s head chef, Cristina Martinez, is a James Beard Award recipient for Best Chef in the Mid-Atlantic region in 2022. So, we took this as a great sign to cross this off our trip list!
We ordered an array of dishes to get the full Mexican experience with a twist of Philadelphian culture. Accompanying our dishes, the group ordered horchata and jamaica, which passed Cinthia’s freshness test, and the guacamole, which was excellent.
The course started with half a kilo of barbacoa for the group, followed by chiles rellenos, a staple Mexican dish. The group also enjoyed enchiladas verdes. Personally, having tried enchiladas verdes many times, I can attest to the quality of the enchiladas at Casa Mexico.
To top off the main course, we had mole, which was my personal favorite as it tasted like home.
To end the meal, we of course had to indulge in our sweet craving and try both the tres leches cake and flan!
Somehow, we still found a bit of space in our stomachs, so we walked down the street in the freezing temperatures to get warm cups of coffee. The establishment, Rim Café, an Italian American café, was decorated as if they were collectors of timepieces depicting the true Italian American culture. Our Italian in the group, Olivia, was the judge, and she said the place reminded her of her uncle’s garage. I take that as the place doing a good job embodying a part of the culture.
Sticking to the classics, we ordered the original and chocolate cannoli (both of which were devoured in seconds).
Nevertheless, my favorite sight at Rim Café was an affogato that Saara got, it consisted of tiramisu gelato on the outside and hot espresso in the middle of it, providing a perfect mixture of hot and cold. Although I got the after-lunch dip, we kept moving to our next stop, the Barnes Foundation.
Experiencing the Philadelphia Barnes Collection
by Cinthia Villarreal
Dr. Barnes started his ambitious collection of art in 1912 and during four decades went on to collect what is now known as a highly regarded assemblage of art. With over 170 paintings of Renoir, and multiple works of Picasso, Van Gogh, Degas, Modigliani, and Seurat, we were all looking forward to visiting the Barnes Foundation in Philadelphia.
After a brief delay caused by an over-zealous security guard (take your jackets off!”). we entered the main room, and we could see the beautiful pieces decorating the four walls. Impressionism, characterized by short, broken brushstrokes and unmixed colors, is one of my favorite styles of art, so I was absolutely delighted as I saw Renoir’s name repeat itself throughout the walls.
As we moved through the exhibit, we started recognizing names from past museum visits, including Olivia’s favorite piece from Goya.
A unique feature of Barnes Foundation is that they do not use the common labels with the title and artist next to each of the pieces. Instead, they have brass plaques fixated with the artist’s name on each of the ornate frames.
To assist those who would like to understand a piece further, the Foundation allows one to scan the paintings with a phone to learn more about the composition and history of the piece.
Isreal, who’s less exposed to the art scene, found a particular liking for the European art, as well as Michelle, who’s favorite was El Greco’s.
In all, we greatly appreciate expanding our understanding of the humanities, especially when it highlights the contrast between where we started and how much we’ve grown. The Barnes Foundation in Philadelphia was a great end to our day, filled with experiencing the city and all that it has to offer!
On day two in New York, we woke full of hope and to clear blue skies…
…albeit with a pronounced chill in the air.
Despite the cold, we were ready to explore the city on foot–not, perhaps, expecting to get in more than 30,000 steps while visiting four museums and two libraries!
Although these museums host art from myriad genres and movements, we focused on three primary areas: American, European, and Modern/Contemporary, finding that this was more than enough to keep us busy over a long day while also expanding our knowledge of the arts.
American
With us bringing different levels of knowledge about art to the trip, there was something for everyone to enjoy–and learn about–among the Museums’ many collections. Speaking for myself, I had many opportunities for learning, and my first such experience of the day involved coming across Early Sunday Morning, by Edward Hopper, at The Whitney.
The American collections had many great pieces, showcasing the depth and diversity of American art. Edward Hopper’s Early Sunday Morning (Whitney) drew me in…
“Early Sunday Morning,” by Edward Hopper
…which was perhaps appropriate, inasmuch as Hopper was born near New York, and he died in Manhattan, not far from where we were seeing his work. This particular piece, I learned, reflected his most commonly emphasized colors (red, yellow, blue, green), as well as the sense of loneliness and isolation that so often characterizes his art.
The museums also showcased Thomas Hart Benton, one of Professor Yawn’s favorite artists. His piece The Lord is my Shepherd (Whitney), Cotton Pickers (The Met), and America Today (The Met), highlighted the regionalist style, while also showcasing Benton’s sense of artistic rhythm.
The representation of African American artists was particularly moving, including Jacob Lawrence’s emotionally charged War Series, which captured collective anxiety…
…and Horace Pippin’s compelling Cabin in the Cotton (Whitney).
We should also mention a work of art in its own (W)right: The Guggenheim Museum. Although all of us appreciate Frank Lloyd Wright’s work none of us had been inside one of the last major architectural works of Wright’s story career, In addition to scoping out the art around the walls and alcoves, we also spent much time simply looking at the interior from various angles and perspectives. Beyond the many genres of art we had a chance to experience, we added to this list American architecture.
European
The European collections presented numerous memorable works. One of the day’s highlights was getting a selfie with Vincent van Gogh’s Self Portrait with a Straw Hat (The Met) and seeing a study of Georges Seurat’s magnificent A Sunday on La Grande Jatte (The Met). Other notable works included John Singer Sargent’s Wyndham Sisters (The Met) and Renoir’s Woman with Parakeet (Guggenheim).
Moreover, I was particularly excited to see more pieces by Edgar Degas, especially after seeing a copy of his famous sculpture Little Dancer of Fourteen Years outside the Degas House in New Orleans. One that I was fond of is his Dancer Moving Forward (Guggenheim) sculpture.
Modern
The modern collections sparked much reminiscence and contemplation. Georgia O’Keeffe’s Ladder to the Moon (Whitney) initially made our group think of Leandro Erlich’s Too Late for Help piece in the New Orleans Museum of Art Besthoff Sculpture Garden, and it was a different look than what we were used to seeing from Ms. O’Keeffe.
And, Keith Haring’sUntitled 1981 piece (Whitney) was enjoyed by everyone and left us thinking of his other known works.
Rene Magritte’s The Lovers (MoMA) particularly excited Olivia, while Salvador Dali’s The Persistence of Memory (MoMA) proved even more captivating in person than in reproductions.
Jackson Pollock’s One: Number 31 (MoMA) captivated us with its scale and abstract expressionist techniques. And, seeing Vincent van Gogh’s Starry Night (MoMA) in person was a treat, a piece Olivia and I had long hoped to experience!
Seeing art from these diverse categories has helped structure my understanding. As I learn more about art, it becomes enjoyable to identify artists before reading the placards. I hope to develop this skill further, aspiring to reach the expertise level of Stephanie, Professor Yawn, and Olivia!
NY Stroll
Walking to four art museums allows for quite a lot of site-seeing, and we tried too make most of our journeys on foot. We began by hoping to photograph the Statue of Liberty, but we were foiled by New York’s never-ending construction. The Statue of Liberty was visible only by boat or through a window, and we only had time for the latter–definitely not the photo we hoped for.
As if to compensate, we had an unexpected photo opportunity, when we all witnessed what Olivia described as “the most New York thing I’ve ever seen”–a squirrel eating a bagel.
We also made our way past the “Charging Bull”, which judging by the sides of the crowds, was probably one of the most popular sites in NYC.
Nearby, we saw the statue of the defiant and vigilant girl, who keeps watch on the New York Stock Exchange.
Because this trip was designed for us to see the presidential inauguration, we also stopped by “Again”, the Federal Hall, to get another and better photo of the George Washington Statue. This significant site was witness to the first ever presidential inauguration and, later, to the writing of the Bill of Rights.
Probably the biggest treat for us was visiting the grand New York Public Library. We stopped for a selfie here, named after the two famous lions who stand guard to the front of the building.
One of these lions is named Patience; one is named Fortitude. No one, it seems, knows which is which, and because they are identical, we’re not sure it matters. Inside the NY Public Library, we visited the periodical reading room, which features 13 murals by Richard Haas. After some negotiation with the paid staff, we were allowed to take a few pictures. Haas, of course, has done 15 murals in our adopted hometown of Huntsville, Texas. Interestingly, New York has the most interior murals of Richard Haas, while Huntsville has the most exterior murals of his in any city in the world. Not to brag, or anything. (Thank you Linda Pease.)
Of course, we had to stop into the nearby Grand Central Station, which we found to be beautiful.
Chrissy also found the “whispering wall,” where a vocalization on one corner will transmit to the other corner, with those in between none the wiser.
All of the above occurred fairly early in our 15 hour day. Our trip back to the hotel, however, was at the end of the day through Times Square, which Chrissy regarded as a special hell on Earth. Having walked more that 30,000 steps, Chrissy’s ankles were literally bleeding, and her misery quickly became ours.
In fairness, Times Square is a bit much, even by American standards. After spending the day reviewing the classics of art, it was a bit jarring to be amidst the gawkers, wannabe influencers, and loiterers. This, combined with the loud sounds and bright, multicolored lights, provided more than enough stimulation for everyone.
Amidst this chaos, we found Hope, literally. In 2008, Robert Indian transformed his classic LOVE sculpture into a HOPE sculpture, reflecting one of President Obama’s campaign messages. As Robert Indiana fans, we paused for a selfie, and in our head tallied up how many said large scale sculptures we have seen. Chrissy, 2; Olivia 4. And on this optimistic note, we wrapped up day two of our five-day democracy tour.
…we were determined to make it worthwhile, so we hit a couple of must-dos on our way back to Texas, finals, and preparation for next semester.
Café du Monde
While we had done a good job of sampling New Orlean’s food scene, we had yet to visit the legendary Cafe Du Monde and sample their legendary beignets.
We learned they were messy before we learned they were good, but their quality was, in fact, soon confirmed, bringing smiles to our faces!
Louisiana State Capitol Building
by Chrissy Biello
On our way back home to Huntsville, we had the opportunity to stop in Baton Rouge to see the Louisiana State Capitol. As we approached the building, Professor Yawn sparked our curiosity by challenging us to guess its architectural style. I initially thought it looked modern, while Olivia suggested post-modern. Up close, we discovered the building was a stunning example of Art Deco architecture!
The interior immediately welcomed us with a decorated Christmas tree that transformed the governmental space into something unexpectedly warm.
Professor Yawn first took us to the area where Huey Long, the 40th Governor of Louisiana from 1928 to 1932, was assassinated inside the Capitol. The assassin, Dr. Carl Weiss, killed Governor Long after he was trying to get a redistricting bill passed. However, after the bill was passed, Long entered the hallway and was shot by Dr. Weiss. Professor Yawn then pointed out the preserved bullet hole in the wall!
Nevertheless, the House Chambers offered a striking contrast to the earlier sad story. Holiday decorations filled the room, with vibrant poinsettias creating a festive atmosphere.
Yet, the ceiling was what really caught our attention; its intricate design and beautiful gold color added something special to the space.
We moved on to the Senate chambers, getting a view we thought might be similar to where press members usually sit during sessions.
Next, we made our way to the elevators so we could reach the tower. From the tower, we could see the entire landscape in front of the building. I recognized the design as a radial layout.
Moreover, there were interesting Art Deco themes that could be seen from above, such as the geometrically shaped parking lot!
Before leaving, we walked down to the grounds and noticed something quite funny; the Huey Long statue was holding Mardi Gras beads!
After noticing this humorous detail, we ensured to get a group photo in front of the Capitol building, making us look incredibly small in comparison.
In all, visiting the Louisiana State Capitol was a great way to conclude our Council of State Governments National Conference trip. Michelle, Olivia, and I left with new experiences, whether educational, cultural or simply memorable moments to look back on!