The LEAP Center is known for its interdisciplinary adventures, and today was no different, as we visited another state capitol, the estate of literary lion, and a Guatemalan restaurant–in Hartford, CT, no less!
Connecticut State House
Nestled in the 41-acre Bushnell Memorial Park in Hartford, the Connecticut State Capitol first welcomed the General Assembly in January 1879 after eight years of planning and construction. A commission formed in 1871 selected architect Richard M. Upjohn, whose father also worked on the Boston Commons, providing us with generational and geographical continuity, even as we visit different sites built in different locations.
James G. Batterson supervised construction, and he significantly altered Upjohn’s design. Using marble and granite from New England, he built a beautiful sculpture that prompted the New York Times to note, that in the sun, the building “sparkled like a fairy palace of frost work.”
It didn’t sparkle on the day we visited; it rained, which also discouraged us from getting a shot of the exterior, but the LEAP Ambassadors of 2018 took a photo on a similar trip.
The building features a gold-leaf dome, and the structure is sometimes referred to as “high Victorian” and sometimes as “Eastlake,” a confusion caused, in part, by the competing visions of the architect and construction supervisor.
Both the exterior and interior feature emblems of the state’s past. One of the more interesting of these is the Charter Oak. Connecticut had a royal charter that largely gave it control over its own governance, but this was threatened in the late 1600s, when King James II tried to revoke the Charter and exert more control. When the King’s men tried to take the Charter, the colonists–Captain Joseph Wadsworth, in particular–took the document and hid it in a white oak tree, which is, not surprisingly, the state tree.
That tree became known as the Charter Oak, and although a storm toppled the tree in 1856, the wood was used to create other items, some of which can be found in the capitol. Its image is also featured on the state’s quarter and on a stamp.
Of course, the Capitol also houses both legislative chambers—the State Senate Chamber and the Hall of the House of Representatives—as well as offices for the Governor, Lieutenant Governor, and Secretary of the State.
It also houses “The Genius of Connecticut,” a 17 foot, 10 inch statue created by Randolph Rogers. The winged figure holds immortalis in her right hand; a mountain laurel (the state flower) in her right; and her head is wreathed in leaves from the white oak.
Formerly, “The Genius of Connecticut” was perched atop the capitol, but she was removed following a hurricane. The statue was melted to make ammunition during World War II. Fortunately, however, the original plaster model was found, and in 2009, a replica of the original was returned to the capitol, albeit in the rotunda rather than in the cupola/dome.
Aurora’s Restaurant
Texans believe that eating Latino cuisine outside of a border state is questionable at best and potentially dangerous. But we are not faint of heart, and we know that immigrants who know food are not limited in where they settle, so we happily braved the rain to visit Aurora’s Restaurant, which serves Guatemalan food, in Hartford, Connecticut.
The staff were welcoming and courteous. They spoke Spanish when not speaking to us, adding to what would prove to be a rewarding an authentic culinary experience.
We sampled a variety of dishes, including the Burrito Bowl, Tortillas con Chorizo, an Aurora Bowl, and plantains–the latter drizzled with crema and topped with queso fresca. All of the dishes were excellent, but the plantains were among the best we had ever had.
We left with full stomachs, and also ever more aware that, to paraphrase Mark Twain, travel is fatal to preconceptions.
Mark Twain House
by Olivia Discon
Samuel Clemens—better known as Mark Twain—was one of America’s most influential authors and storytellers. His works such The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn and Life on the Mississippi are classics. But while his writing is widely known, fewer people know about the man himself, the life he led, or his stunning Victorian home in Hartford, Connecticut.
We weren’t allowed to take photos inside, but our tour guide, Josh, brought the house to life with vivid stories. The home has had many lives—at one point an apartment building, later a school, and even a library—before being restored as a museum. Over time, renovations stripped away original touches, including designs by Louis Comfort Tiffany (which, to my dismay, were once considered unfashionable). Thankfully, the museum has worked to restore the home as closely as possible to how it looked when the Clemens family lived there, guided in part by the memories of their daughter, Clara.
The library was the most charming room. Its mantelpiece, a hand-carved work from Ireland, is extravagant. Whimsical portraits—a cat, a rabbit, and a woman in blue affectionately named Eveline by the Clemens daughters–hung on the walls. Each night, Twain would spin bedtime stories using these characters. If he ever repeated a storyline, his daughters would call him out, forcing him to start fresh. According to Josh, Twain may have done this intentionally just to test whether they were paying attention. The library also included a small conservatory filled with greenery, along with a decorative frog—a playful nod to Twain’s famous short story, The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County.
We also visited Twain’s office, which doubled as his billiard room. It was here that he wrote, smoked cigars, played pool, and paced while working through drafts. A shelf of cubbies held his unfinished manuscripts—something I secretly envied.
The house also carries the weight of the family’s tragedies. Their daughter Susy died of meningitis in the home at just 24 years old. And, owing to financial difficulties, the family eventually had to sell the home, much to Twain’s chagrin.
Even with its history of sorrow, Twain often described the Hartford house as the setting for some of the happiest years of his life. It was, he noted, “the loveliest home that ever was.” Walking through its cozy, richly detailed rooms, we found ourselves understanding that sentiment.
Photo Ops
Following our day in Hartford, we headed north, toward Stockbridge, MA, preparing ourselves for another full day tomorrow. But along the way, we stopped to see Herman Melville’s home, “Arrowhead”…
Herman Mellville’s “Arrowhead,” (Photo by Daderot)
…and “The Mount,” the home of Edith Wharton.
Edit Wharton’s “The Mount” (Photo by David Dashiell)
Concluding Thoughts
It’s difficult to organize disparate adventures into a memorable and cohesive learning experience. But through some preparation, a desire for new experiences, and an open mind, we managed to see quite a lot and assimilate almost as much. A beautiful state capitol designed by Richard M. Upjohn, a great Guatemalan restaurant in the heart of Hartford, and the “loveliest home that ever was” by the quintessential American author–all in the day of LEAP Ambassador.
Rhode Island is the smallest state in the Union, but that hasn’t stopped us from having a big time. Whether learning about the health care system, apprenticeships, utility provision, or the criminal justice system, we’ve found the conference rewarding. Moreover, we’ve benefitted from some amazing networking opportunities and some off-site excursions–which included parasailing! But our last day of the official conference promised more learning and interest.
A Silver Lining to our Last Session
by Michelle Moya
As our final day in Providence drew to a close, Olivia and I attended a farewell session that offered a refreshing departure from the usual conference format. Instead of policy panels and legislative discussions, we found ourselves in a fireside chat with three-time Olympian Elizabeth Beisel, hosted by Margie O’Brien, with breakfast served alongside inspiration.
The session started off with something special: Beisel passed around her actual Olympic medals—silver from London 2012 and bronze from Beijing 2008—for everyone to see and hold.
The weight of these medals surprised me, both literally and figuratively, but I snapped a photo holding both…
Beisel’s story begins in Rhode Island, the “Ocean State.” At just 15, while still a high school sophomore, she made the U.S. Olympic team for Beijing 2008. What makes her journey particularly remarkable is her decision to stay and train in Rhode Island rather than relocating to traditional swimming powerhouses like Florida or California.
This choice to remain rooted in her home state would become a recurring theme throughout her career—the value of staying true to your origins and finding excellence in unexpected places.
Perhaps the most compelling aspect of our conversation centered around Beisel’s 2012 London Olympics silver medal, which she’s transformed from a simple athletic achievement into a life philosophy. Her book, titled “Silver Lining,” explores the emotions of accomplishing something extraordinary that still falls short of your ultimate dream.
After retiring at 24, Beisel embraced opportunities she’d spent years declining during her competitive career. This included an appearance on Survivor, where she lived outdoors for 30 days with no food, shelter, or supplies beyond basic tools and access to water. While the experience tested her in entirely new ways, it proved rewarding in an unexpected manner—she met her future husband on the show.
Her post-competition journey illustrates an important lesson about saying “yes” to new experiences and remaining open to life’s unexpected directions, themes that emerged repeatedly throughout our conference discussions about career transitions and public service.
The conversation took a more serious turn as Beisel shared her experience caring for her father during his battle with pancreatic cancer. The diagnostic process stretched nearly a year, and once treatment began, she found herself becoming his advocate within a complex healthcare system—a challenge that has also been a recurring theme of our conference sessions.
The most moving portion of our session focused on Beisel’s 10.5-mile swim from Block Island to mainland Rhode Island, which raised $700,000 for pancreatic cancer research. The swim was canceled three times due to weather conditions before she finally completed it in 5 hours and 18 minutes—tragically, after her father had already passed away.
During the swim, facing cold conditions in just a regular swimsuit (marathon swimming regulations prohibit wetsuits), she found herself struggling with the elements. “Dad, give me the sun,” she whispered to her late father. Within 30 seconds, the sun emerged and remained with her throughout the remainder of the swim.
She also discovered a painted rock at her favorite seawall spot that read “Never give up” right after the third cancellation, when she was considering abandoning the project—a sign she interpreted as encouragement from her father to attempt the swim one final time.
Now working in sports journalism, Beisel covers swimming for various media outlets while preparing for 2028 LA Olympics coverage. Her transition from athlete to journalist demonstrates another form of public service—using expertise and platform to educate and inform others.
As we prepared to leave Providence, Beisel’s message reminded us that excellence takes many forms, that setbacks often lead to unexpected opportunities, and that meaningful service can emerge from personal challenges. Her story provided a fitting conclusion to our conference experience—one that emphasized resilience, adaptability, and hard work.
Rhode Island Capitol
by Michelle Moya
On our last morning in Providence, we knew there was only one fitting way to wrap up our time in the city: a visit to the Rhode Island State House. The structure combines both majesty and beauty.
Our guide, Tony–who proved excellent–began in the rotunda beneath what he called the “inner dome”—the fourth-largest self-supporting marble dome in the world.
Unlike the U.S. Capitol’s iron framework, Rhode Island’s dome is pure Georgian Cherokee marble, standing under its own weight.
As you look up, Tony explained that what seems like one mural is actually four vignettes depicting the state’s founding story: Roger Williams meeting with Narragansett chiefs Canonicus and Miantonom. Williams, a radical preacher who argued for separation of church and state—an unthinkable idea in 1635 Massachusetts—would go on to define Rhode Island’s independent spirit.
Banished from Massachusetts that same year, Williams trekked south, fell ill, and was nursed back to health by Massasoit before settling at a spring given by the Narragansetts. From there grew Providence. For a century, the “General Assembly” rotated between four towns, and for nearly 200 years the state juggled five separate capitols.
Finally, in 1890, Rhode Island commissioned McKim, Mead & White—the nation’s leading architectural firm—to design a permanent home. Completed in 1904, it was one of the first capitols to integrate electricity, a fact architect Charles McKim made clear by leaving lightbulbs exposed throughout.
Encircling the dome is a phrase from Tacitus: “Happy are those times when you can think what you want and say what you think.” Four allegorical figures—Justice, Literature, Commerce, and Education—peer down from above, all allegedly modeled after the artist’s wife.
Crowning the dome, 220 feet overhead, stands the Independent Man. During a recent cleaning the statue nearly toppled, prompting an emergency rescue and full regilding. While it was displayed inside for restoration, many visitors had the chance to take photos with him upon waiting for restoration!
From there we moved into the House chamber, the building’s largest room. This nearly 50-foot cube houses 75 representatives serving the state’s one million residents. What impressed me most was its accessibility: when not in session, visitors may walk directly onto the chamber floor and speak with legislators, something we can definitely not expect in Texas!
The Senate chamber, by contrast, felt more formal, framed by Carrara marble columns. Thirteen golden discs circle the room to represent the colonies, with Rhode Island proudly centered as the decisive 13th state to ratify the Constitution. Tony pointed out the chamber’s perfect symmetry, aligned along an axis from the Senate President’s chair through the House Speaker’s podium.
Our next stop was the State Library, with a working archive with 40,000 volumes and another 170,000 in storage. Mahogany walls surround iron staircases cleverly painted to resemble wood, and the ceiling itself mimics the look of book bindings. Renaissance printer logos decorate the cornice. In a bit of rivalry, McKim included Harvard’s insignia, despite Brown University being the nearest. Governor T.F. Green, a Brown alumnus, later had it replaced with William Caxton’s printer’s mark.
Nearby we also found the Book of Honor, listing 1,700 Rhode Islanders who died in World War II. Locked for preservation, it can be opened for families searching for loved ones’ names.
We finished off in the State Room which holds some of the building’s greatest treasures, including an original 1803 Gilbert Stuart portrait of George Washington as President, with a rainbow of hope in the background.
The room also honors Rhode Island heroes such as Oliver Hazard Perry, John Barry, and Nathanael Greene, the Quaker-turned-general who rose to become Washington’s second-in-command.
Our final stop was the museum, which preserves the state’s most important artifacts. At its center is the 1663 Royal Charter, written on animal hide and displayed in a quarter-million-dollar protective case. Granted by King Charles II, it offered Rhode Island unprecedented autonomy and religious freedom. The museum also displays the Portsmouth and Providence compacts of the 1630s, Native American land deeds signed with bow-and-arrow drawings, and even Roger Williams’ own compass and sundial.
With Rhode Island now marking my fifth capitol and Olivia’s thirteenth, this tour proved the perfect send-off to our time in Providence before hitting the road for our next state!
Concluding Thoughts
It was our last day in Rhode Island, a state we had come to admire for its beauty, history, and hospitality. Although a small state–King Ranch in Texas is larger–there was much for us to see, and we didn’t, of course, see all of it. So, it was with a tinge of sadness that we bought coffee at the charming “Rise ‘N Shine.”
Although we had to say goodbye to Rhode Island, we were heading to other green pastures, and that silver lining brought some smiles, as we thought of our impending travels to “The Constitution State,” Connecticut.
Having already learned a lot at the conference and on our own, we were ready for another day of educational excursions and events. Today’s itinerary included a plenary luncheon focused on challenges associated with the availability of primary care physicians, a site visit concerning education and workforce development, and a state dinner.
Primary Care Shortagesand Challenges
by Olivia Discon
Over a lunch of fish, rice, and broccoli—quite healthy (well, mostly), might I add!—we enjoyed some good company, a brief award ceremony, and a rich educational opportunity to learn about medical care in the 21st century.
To begin, we were happy for Rep. Kevin Ryan of Montville, NJ, who received the W. Paul White State and Regional Leadership Award.
we enjoyed hearing from Senator Gustavo Rivera of New York, chair of the CSG East Health Policy Committee, who discussed the suboptimal supply of primary care physicians.
Just a generation ago, a primary care physician was a trusted source of care and advice. Today, however, many cities struggle with finding doctors who will accept sufficient numbers of insurance patients to make a real difference in their communities.
The keynote speaker, Joe Telano, senior policy manager at the Primary Care Development Corporation, laid out the problem.
The existence of quality primary care physicians in communities has been demonstrated to lengthen lives, but not enough communities have access to those physicians. In turn, this creates greater stress on specialized medicine, as patients are delayed in having serious issues diagnosed and referred. Moreover, the lack of primary care physicians adds to community health problems: increased likelihood of pandemics, more suffering from chronic diseases (e.g., diabetes), and even more gun violence.
Currently, only about 5-7 percent of health care expenditures go toward primary care, and a greater investment, according to Telano, is needed. Of course, this is only one part of a comprehensive plan. Other needed changes include: insurance regulations, grants for low-income communities, and a broader perspective of what constitutes “public health.”
Interestingly, part of this expanded view of public health could include education and workforce development…
Building Futures: Apprenticeship and Workforce Development
By Michelle Moya
One of the conference highlights was the site visit for our Education and Workforce Development session, which a tour of Building Futures, Rhode Island’s premier pre-apprenticeship program. Olivia and I were joined by a diverse group of senators and representatives from across the country for what would become one of my favorite sessions.
Our visit began in the hands-on training space, where we witnessed day two of a five-week intensive course. The tour was led by Andrew Cortez, president of Building Futures and a former apprentice himself, who shared insight into what the program is and what makes it effective.
Building Futures connects community residents to registered apprenticeship opportunities in the building trades. The program has a dual mission: preparing individuals for apprenticeships through training and readiness while also partnering with project owners to require apprentice participation in construction. This two-pronged approach ensures both workforce preparation and job placement.
Cortez emphasized that success in the trades depends on three essentials: showing up every day on time, working hard, and applying yourself to learn. Technical skills matter, but they rest on these fundamental values of reliability, perseverance, and a willingness to grow. As a student, I found this surprisingly inspiring. It reminded me that success in any field—whether in school or in a career—often comes down to those same habits. Technical skills can be taught, but without consistency and the right attitude, it’s hard to succeed anywhere.
From the active training floor, we transitioned to a classroom setting where our group of legislators and workforce development professionals gathered around tables for a deeper conversation about the program. A highlight of our roundtable was learning about recent legislation that allows apprenticeship pathways to count toward college credit in Rhode Island. Senator Hanna Gallo, who helped lead this effort, joined us for the discussion, along with Matt Weldon, Director of the Department of Labor and Training.
The program’s impact became tangible through the graduates who shared their stories with us. Vennicia Kingston, who transitioned from banking to carpentry, now owns Eagle Eye Construction Services and employs multiple Building Futures alumni—a great example of how networking creates a cycle of opportunity. Another graduate shared how, just months after incarceration, he not only completed his apprenticeship but also bought his first home and eventually built his own million-dollar construction company.
These transformations illustrate what Cortez stressed throughout our visit: the most valuable skills are consistency, work ethic, and a learning mindset. This philosophy mirrors the character development emphasized in LEAP, where academic and career success are built on the foundation of personal responsibility and values.
As we concluded our tour and roundtable discussion, one lesson stood out clearly: good students and successful professionals are people who show up, work hard, and embrace continuous learning. This blend of character and skill creates pathways to both personal transformation and economic opportunity—lessons we will carry forward as we pursue our future goals.
State Dinner
by Olivia Discon
The conference concluded with the State Dinner, the most formal event of the conference, where we dined with some of the event organizers, an event photographer, as well as some fellow southerners. Senator Walter Michel–whom we had lunch with–and his wife, Laura, joined us for a nice meal and delightful conversation.
We also had a chance to see the host committee, who spent years planning for this event, be recognized.
The main event, however, was the meal, which featured a three-course meal including a beef entrée, asparagus, and potatoes as its main course, along with a salad and a scrumptious dessert (Chocolate Mousse).
In the background wafted the swing beat of Sinatra tunes, performed by Michael Dutra: “Simply Sinatra.”
We shared stories about our visits to waterfalls in North Carolina, where one of the event organizers is from, to challenges faced by the Mississippi Legislature, to the decreasing importance of ISO in modern cameras. It was a wonderful way to cap our evening programs at the Council of State Governments–East.
It was a day to remember: we had already luxuriated in the extravagance of the Newport Mansions; enjoyed the sun, the wind, and the rush of parasailing. And still we had much to do. We wanted to spend a little time on the beach on Aquindeck Island, seeing wildlife and enjoying the coastal breeze; trying some of Rhode Island’s tastier dinner spots; and witnessing first-hand the famed installation art Waterfire.
Aquindeck Island
You might be forgiven if you think that Rhode Island is surrounded by water. That is, after all, the definition of an island. But the state of Rhode Island isn’t an island. Originally, Rhode Island consisted of settlements such as Newport and Portsmouth, which are, in fact, on an island, plus the territory on the mainland (Providence). This, then, is the Rhode Island in the State’s name, which was technically, “Rhode Island and the Providence Plantations.”
No one, however, used the full name of the island. Still, the State stuck with “Rhode Island and the Providence Plantations” for some 300 years, only changing its name officially in 2020.
Nonetheless, Rhode Islanders do have quick access to the shore; in fact, by our calculations, everyone in the state can get to the ocean or a bay in less than 35 minutes. It may not be an island, but it can fairly call itself “The Ocean State.”
Accordingly, as part of our Rhode Island explorations, we spent considerable time alternating between land and sea–and, as we noted in our prior blog, the air.
But we also wanted a closer, more tactile feel of the Rhode Island Coastline. So we drove along Ocean Drive, walking on the rocks; traipsing along the shore, where the wet waves tickled our feet; and overall gaining a different sensory perspective of Rhode Island.
We saw more evidence of the wealth that populates the coastline…
…and we observed and listened to some of the coastal wildlife.
It was, as the photos attest, a very different experience than the beaches with which we were familiar (e.g., Galveston).
All this touring, parasailing, beachcombing, and wildlife watching helped us build up a hunger, which made (most of) us think of seafood. To that end, we researched restaurants en route to our evening conference destination, and we found Track 15, a food court on the river.
Track 15
What kind of dining establishment, you ask, is named “Track 15?” In this case, it is a dining destination at the former Union Station (1898), which housed 14 separate railroad tracks. The food court, then, is an extension of a key transportation hub in Providence’s history, the 15th Track.
The 15th Track doubles as a “third place,” a place that brings people together while also allowing the past and present to intermingle. The restaurants are adjacent to Providence’s Waterplace Park, an urban park where the land and sea merge and people gather, coming together. Even the experience of dining is reimagined, bringing the past to the present: some of the eating establishments offer menus in the shape of arrival/departure boards of the old railroad stations; and the table tops on which we and others ate were made from wood recycled from the old rail cars.
True to Rhode Island’s proximity to the sea, we enjoyed an excellent (small) seafood platter (clams, mussels and shrimp), fish, and a lobster roll.
But we mixed it up a bit, and we also tried some pasta; true to the spirit of being in a former transportation hub, we also wanted some food more common to other places.
The food was excellent. The pasta was hand-rolled and featured subtle flavors that came together just right. The lobster was creamy and fluffy; the fish buttery and flaky; and the seafood platter a surprising variety of flavors: the clams were sweet and light; the mussels more tender and briny; and the oysters clean and less salty than one would imagine.
We also enjoyed the people watching. There is both indoor and outdoor seating, and the latter features games, versatile seating, and alcoves. People played cornhole; mothers danced and laughed with daughters; and others just relaxed and listened, delighting in the nice weather.
Following this enjoyable sensory experience, we ambled on to our next stop, Waterplace Park.
Waterfire
To end our day, we attended a reception in downtown Providence organized for us by the Council of State Governments and operated by WaterFire , a nonprofit dedicated to revitalizing city life through visual and performance art.
We set up stations and split into two groups to capture different photos and videos of the evening. Hundreds of people were in attendance, including legislators, conference participants, local residents, and passersby.
As the crowd filled the beautiful space, the event began with a ceremonial gong. An eclectic playlist emanated from speakers in the park. Myriad musical styles were represented: African, Latino, 60s Rock, Classical, Rap, and Alt-Contemporary. The music was selected consciously, offering a global scope to the ceremony, reflecting the goal of bringing people together.
The installation sculpture incorporates the world’s four elements. humans sit on the earth surrounding the water. The Fire Dancer enters…
…while fire starters and fire tenders light logs on fire, and as the wind sweeps along the river, sparks fly in the air.
Conceived as performance art, the ceremony is multi-sensory: the sound of the music, the touch of the wind and the heat on the skin, the smell of the fire, and, of course, the visual spectacle of a fire coming forth from water.
The event was effective in stimulating our senses, while also playing with our expectations. What we all agreed on was that it was a thought-provoking and interesting event that brought strangers and friends together while highlighting the beauty of Providence, Rhode Island.
It was a sense-sational way to end a full day in Providence, Rhode Island.
It was an excursion day at the conference, where guests had the opportunity to go to Newport, Rhode Island and see some of the Host State’s most intriguing sites. In Rhode Island, this involves a slew of Gilded Age Mansions, and we managed to fit in three separate homes: The Breakers, the Marble House, and Rosecliff.
Newport, Rhode Island has beauty, temperate summers, and its location on a picturesque coastline have made it an ideal location for summer homes for the wealthy. Over the decades, however, not all of the owners’ descendants have wanted to maintain these homes, nor is it easy to find buyers for structures worth, according to recent estimates, 500 million.
Fortunately, the Preservation Society of Newport County purchased many of these homes over the past sixty years, and they have made them available for touring to the general public. For those interested, ticket options include The Breakers + 1 or The Breakers + 2 or specialty tours (e.g., “Under The Breakers Tour”). We opted for The Breakers + 1, with the idea that after seeing the main attraction, we would “breakup” and see different houses (Moya and Discon: Rosecliff; Mike and Stephanie: The Marble House).
The Marble House
The wealthy had lived in Newport prior to the construction of “The Marble House” by William Vanderbilt, but this home was the first of the stone-built mansions that would eventually dot the coastline. An aptly-named structure if ever there was one, the Marble House was designed by Richard Morris Hunt, featured fifty rooms, 140,000 square feet of space, and 500,000 cubic feet of marble.
William Vanderbilt gave it to Alva as a gift for her 39th birthday, which makes you wonder what he would have given to her for, say, her fiftieth birthday. We’ll never know, because she divorced him not long after, and she kept the house.
Done largely in a Beaux-Arts style, the home was unparalleled in opulence when it was completed in 1892. It sits on the Atlantic coast, overlooking the ocean, features two-story Corinthian columns, and its western facade somewhat resembles the White House. With its size and splendor, the home has been the setting for many films and television shows, including The Great Gatsby (1974), 27 Dresses, The Buccaneers, and The Gilded Age.
For those visiting in person, however, the entry is through two doors (with WV on the front) that weigh one-and-a-half tons each, an entry that offers a breath-taking view of the grand staircase.
This two-level room is inspired by both the Palace of Versailles and the Louvre. The banister is wrought iron with bronze gilding, the room gleams with yellow Siena marble, and an eighteenth century mural graces the ceiling, above a gold and crystal chandelier.
Each room offers similarly notable features. The dining room–which was unlike any room we have dined in–showcases a large table with bronze chairs with gold leaf–each weighing seventy-five pounds.
The ceiling decor included game such that might be served for dinner.
The gold room is, as one might expect, predominately gold, but it is accented by green silk drapes (by Prelle) and black.
The most ornate room, however, was the gothic room, which featured Alva Vanderbilt’s collection of medieval art and artifacts, all situated in a room with gothic elements.
By itself, the Marble House offers a class in architecture, interior design, art, history, and excess.
But it is also interesting as a window to an age in which the wealthy competed with each other for even greater conspicuous splendor, which we weren’t sure was even possible until we visited The Breakers.
The Breakers
by Olivia Discon
It’s difficult to select a favorite house, but there is a reason that The Breakers is common to most of the tours. Built in 1895 and designed by Richard Morris Hunt for the Cornelius Vanderbilt family, the home boasts 70 rooms and 138,000 square feet. With a fortune built on shipping and railroads, the Vanderbilts were one of America’s wealthiest families, and their wealth is evident everywhere in the home.
Visitors to the home first see “The Great Hall,” which was inspired by an Italian Courtyard. Not wanting a true open roof, the family opted for a ceiling with a trompe l’oeil mural to mimic the open sky.
Built in a perfect cube–50 by 50 by 50–this single room is larger than the average American house. The term “great” simply doesn’t do the hall justice.
The Billiard Room was another favorite of the group. The mosaic floor was adorned with coastal details, the walls featured “arches” painted in gold leaf, and the room was designed with numerous elements, making for a fun “I Spy” type game for visitors.
Although we were a bit tired from waking up so early, we couldn’t help but fall in love with the “Morning Room.” The room faces east, allowing the sun to pour into the chamber, and the warm lighting and yellow-hued adornments provided a welcoming warmth. The idea of having a room so opulent and just for the morning hours is such a Vanderbilt type of luxury.
One of most interesting aspects of the house is that each room offers intricate and elaborate details that are ripe for overlooking things. To take an example, the Morning Room features panels with cherubs, which, at first glance, appear to simply be classically-themed lagniappe. Upon closer look, however, you see that one cherub is holding an anchor; the other is holding a railroad spike and hammer. Both tie back into the source of the Vanderbilt’s income–the income that made such decor possible.
Each room offered something special. The Loggia offered a breath-taking view of the ocean;
…the bedrooms, although described by the owners as more “austere” than the public-facing rooms, were still opulent, each featuring separate baths, dressing rooms, and walk-in closets;
…and the library was perhaps the most stunning, with the wood doors that had gold leaf pressed into them to give an appearance of a storybook cover, and upper walls lined with green Spanish leather, providing the look of a hide-bound book.
It’s difficult to fathom that such a home was used for only part of the year, a reminder that we live in different worlds and a different age than the Vanderbilts.
Rosecliff
by Michelle Moya
After exploring The Breakers, Olivia and I were especially excited to visit another Newport mansion renowned for its elegance and beauty—Rosecliff Mansion—and it absolutely lived up to its reputation.
Commissioned in 1899 by silver heiress Teresa “Tessie” Fair Oelrichs and designed by architect Stanford White, Rosecliff draws inspiration from the Grand Trianon at Versailles. Its pale limestone façade and French neoclassical design create an elegant lightness that sets it apart from Newport’s other grand estates. While Olivia and I are still learning about various architectural styles, visiting both these homes provided a perfect opportunity to deepen our understanding.
Rosecliff’s history includes dramatic turns: it was sold for a mere $21,000 in 1941, but endured severe winter damage before the Monroes refurbished it in 1947. In 1971, the Preservation Society received the mansion as a donation, and it is now considered a historic house museum, event space, and more.
Upon entering, the first thing that caught our eye was the stunning heart-shaped frame surrounding the staircase. This feature lends the entrance hall a theatrical elegance—a design element I found particularly beautiful.
Our self-guided tour began in the French Renaissance salon, which quickly became my favorite space.
The room has coffered ceilings and classical pilasters, with chandeliers adorned by musical instruments—a homage to Teresa’s talents as a master of the flute, piano, guitar, mandolin, and banjo! Similarly, portraits of society members, painted in the grand European tradition, line the walls.
Next, the tour leads to the mansion’s crown jewel: its ballroom. The ballroom measures 40 by 80 feet with high 22-foot ceilings, making it Newport’s largest private ballroom. There are windows along both sides, creating an airy ambiance, while a masterful trompe-l’œil ceiling depicts a sky-like garden landscape. This room was Olivia’s favorite, and it’s easy to see why.
While we were reading about this space, we also learned that Teresa Fair Oelrichs truly embodied Gilded Age excess, especially in fashion. Wealthy families ordered wardrobes from Charles Frederick Worth in Paris, with ladies visiting the House of Worth twice yearly, spending roughly $30,000 per visit, the equivalent of $600,000 today. This translates to annual clothing expenditures of about $1.2 million in today’s currency, which we found absolutely crazy!
The first floor also houses the Library (or Billiard Room), showcasing Stanford White’s Jacobean styling with bleached English oak paneling and a distinctive white paint.
Additionally, the Dining Room, which is now painted white, having been originally pea-green walls, was filled gold accents, silk draperies by Jules Allard, and landscape panels.
The second floor of the mansion offers additional rooms and rotating exhibits. Currently, the room hosts “Richard Morris Hunt: In a New Light,” showcasing the architect’s contributions and career.
The exhibit displayed his personal sketchbooks…
patron collections, and his creative journey…
After a stop at the gift shop, the tour led us to the mansion’s rear, where a walkway opens onto breathtaking grounds—a view we both instantly fell in love with. Rosecliff’s 21 acres of formal gardens…
oceanfront landscapes…
…and beautiful rear exterior…
…create a stunning contrast between refined architecture and Rhode Island’s rugged coastline.
Today, Rosecliff continues to host elegant gatherings and has appeared in films such as the The Great Gatsby, True Lies, Heaven’s Gate, Amistad, 27 Dresses, and many more. It stands as a great reminder of Gilded Age grandeur and a cultural treasure that Olivia and I loved exploring!
Concluding Thoughts
As noted above, The Great Gatsby, written by F. Scott Fitzgerald, was filmed at various locations on the Newport Coast. The film tries to capture visually the spirit of the book, which addresses themes such as the American Dream and materialism of the Gilded Age and its vestiges that carried over through the 1920s, when the novel was written. It’s a harsh view of the United States, and it is perhaps unfair.
But our visit to the Newport Mansions did drive home a point made by Fitzgerald in a short story described as “an extension of ‘The Great Gatsby’, “Let me tell you about the very rich. They are different from you and me….They think, deep in their hearts, that they are better than we are because we had to discover the compensations and refuges of life for ourselves….They are different.”
Our visit to the Newport Mansions was a wonderful learning experience. We had a rare chance to see the splendor that only a few people ever get to experience, and even fewer have a chance to experience as a way of life. It was a moment to soak in, a chance to see the beauty, the craftsmanship, and the intricacy that the world’s great artists and architects could create, and it was a reminder that those who lived here enjoyed very different lives than the rest of us.
When you wake up in Boston, and you need to be at a conference in Providence, Rhode Island, there is some driving to do. Fortunately, there are some things to see in between the two cities, and LEAP specializes in exploiting targets of opportunity.
To tackle an early morning with history, some human energy is required. This came in the form of a rare stop at a chain: Dunkin’ Donuts. But not just any Dunkin’ Donuts–the first-ever Dunkin’, which was founded in Quincy, MA, in 1950. Originally, it was “Open Kettle,” but the owner, William Rosenberg, noticed that his customers often dunked the donuts (5 cents) in the coffee (10 cents), and a new brand was born. It was this history–the 75th anniversary of which is being celebrated this year–that prompted LEAP to break its no-chain guideline.
Quincy, MA is known as “The Birthplace of Presidents.” Indeed, the town meets the plural requirement because both John Adams and his son, John Quincy Adams, were born there. If you are feeling generous, you could also allow Quincy to claim John Hancock, who is most famous for signing the Declaration of Independence, but who also served as President of the Continental Congress.
But the city’s most defensible claim is being the home of the two Adamses, and their both homes are side-by-side in a residential area. John Adams’ birth home dates from 1735, although some of the lumber used to make the house dates back to the 1670s, apparently recycled from another structure. John Quincy Adams was born next door in a home that dates back to 1717. John Quincy, however, did not arrive there until 1767, when he was born on July 11. The family would live in this house until 1783.
Interestingly, the property consists of 11 structures in all, one of which was built on order from John Quincy Adams’ will, which funded the construction of a stone library. This library, completed in 1870 and made of stone to prevent fire, holds Adams’ 14,000 books (in twelve languages).
Feeling suitably dispirited about our own reading habits, we moseyed south to what Trip Advisor raters ranked as the “most disappointing attraction in the United States”: Plymouth Rock. Trip Advisor clickers aren’t known for their taste, but they have a point. The rock is a small boulder that sits on the shore of Plymouth Bay. It is caged off.
It’s a disappointing rock, but in fairness, it has been treated poorly over the years, and it probably feels a bit vengeful. Across the centuries, it was painted with the numerals “1620”. When that proved unsuitable, someone decided to chip the numerals 1620 into the rock itself. People have stolen fragments from it, reducing it in size. At another point, town leaders decided to move the rock, and in doing so they broke it. Part of it was buried, which is probably the best thing for it in terms of safety. The rock is now approximately a third of the size it was originally, or so it is believed, but who knows?
Learning from Legislators
For our first day at the CSG East Conference, we split up so that we could learn directly on those topics most relevant to us, but also learn from each other in after-the-fact debriefings.
One of the key topics we explored was education, and the importance of early childhood education in children’s later development. Panelists Caroline O’Neal (CEO, Reading Assist), CT Representative Kate Farrar, Quebec Assemblywoman Marie-Belle Gendron, and RI Senator Hanna Gallo shared their experiences fighting for education for all pre-k children.
There was not a lot of ideological diversity on the panel, and as might be expected, there was a lot of agreement. All panelists agreed that the early years, when brain development is occurring most rapidly, are the most important. Living in a healthy, vocabulary-rich environment helps children reach their potential.
What was less clear was how to achieve healthy, vocabulary-rich environments for all children. Some states rely on home visits, where social workers (often health care professionals) visit the homes and provide resources to the parents, if requested. The panel was generally in agreement that Pre-K professionals should be paid the same amount and given the same respect as K-12 teachers, although little evidence was discussed to indicate that this would increase outcomes.
Perhaps most intriguingly, Representative Farrar mentioned the “Sparkler” app which parents can download and learn about developmental milestones from the ages of two months to five years. Not only does the app offer activities that can help families achieve those milestones, it also provides informational resources to parents when a child is underachieving.
Such an app is cheaper than most options, although it like many government programs, works best when families are motivated and educated. While the entire set of programs discussed are expensive, the panelists continued their unanimity in agreeing that the “cost of doing nothing,” which includes greater costs of government services and prisons, is prohibitive. And this made for a nice segue to our next session.
Criminal Justice Challenges for Youth
by Michelle Moya
One of LEAP’s core missions is cultivating well-informed professionals who can advance in their roles while gaining practical knowledge directly applicable to their work. Attending the Council of State Governments Eastern Regional Conference exemplified this mission, providing me with valuable insights that will strengthen my work for State Representative Trey Wharton and knowledge I look forward to bringing back to Texas.
On the first day of the conference, our second session was the roundtable on Emerging Criminal and Youth Justice Challenges in the Eastern Region. The discussion featured legislators from Maine, New Hampshire, Maryland, Delaware, Massachusetts, Vermont, and Rhode Island–including Representative Mary Ann Shallcross Smith, whom we had met in an earlier session…
…as well as policy analysts from New Jersey and Texas and advocates from organizations such as Casey Family Programs.
The roundtable discussion was guided by three central questions. The first asked legislators to share their most pressing challenges. New Hampshire identified the fentanyl epidemic as its greatest concern, fueling homelessness and repeated system involvement without sustainable solutions. Maryland reported rising juvenile crime rates and overcrowded facilities, disproportionately affecting minority communities. Maine emphasized inadequate behavioral health services that leave youth in correctional facilities when what they truly need is treatment. Rhode Island lawmakers described this pattern as the “criminalization door,” where children with mental health needs must go through law enforcement before receiving help, creating trauma and leaving permanent records for youth who need care, not punishment.
The second question focused on effective approaches that have been implemented in their designated states. Maryland automatically assigns public defenders to juveniles upon arrest and has a comprehensive expungement system. Rhode Island cleared more than 40,000 records through automated expungement–both efficiently and under budget. While New Hampshire strengthened constitutional privacy protections by limiting surveillance data retention to 48 hours. Some states have also adopted juvenile hearing boards as diversion alternatives and replaced school resource officers with social workers. A shared belief was shared among many: legislation alone is not enough. Effective advocacy requires direct community engagement through measures like police ride-along and town halls. One interesting example was provided, where three police officers dispatched to address a seven-year-old who hit a teacher, an incident that could be resolved only by calling the child’s grandmother. It underscored how normal childhood behavior is increasingly treated as criminal.
Another significant concern was how media coverage and public perception often overshadow data in shaping policy. Legislators noted that sensational, negative stories drive public opinion, creating fear-based narratives that are difficult to counter, even when crime rates are declining. This makes it challenging to pass reforms supported by evidence but misaligned with public perception.
As someone working for a state legislator, I found the interstate exchange of ideas particularly valuable.
Learning how other states confront shared challenges not only provided insights that could inform Texas policy development but also broadened my perspective on issues in our state.
Housing Development Through State-Municipal Cooperation
by Olivia Discon
The housing panel at the Eastern Regional Conference brought together leaders in community development from Massachusetts, New Jersey, and Connecticut to talk about how states can work with cities and towns to expand affordable housing. Noah Kazis from the University of Michigan set the stage, and then Chris Kluchman, Colleen Velez, and David Kooris walked through what their states are doing.
In Massachusetts, zoning reform has been a focus since the late 1960s. At that time, only about 7 percent of the housing stock was affordable. Today it is closer to 26 percent, with much of it located in Boston suburbs. One of the biggest tools is Chapter 40B, which allows developers to bypass some local restrictions if they include affordable units. If a town has not met the 10 percent threshold for affordability, the state can override local opposition. While effective, these kinds of requirements can also create problems. Market changes can make projects unaffordable, and strict zoning rules sometimes backfire. At the same time, the state has continued to push forward with new programs. The Healey-Driscoll administration, for example, has committed $20 million to support the creation of 4,000 new units, and more than 140 communities have now adopted multifamily zoning after initially resisting it as an unfunded mandate.
New Jersey has a long legal history in this area, dating back to its 1985 Fair Housing Act. That law created the Council on Affordable Housing, which enforces each municipality’s “fair share” of affordable units based on both local and regional needs.
Municipalities must adopt 10-year fair share plans, and the state also supports nonprofit developers through training modules on zoning, placemaking, and housing models. In addition, the Department of Community Affairs provides pre-development funding to help those organizations get projects off the ground.
Connecticut’s challenge is different. With no county governments, coordination across its 169 municipalities is difficult. The Connecticut Municipal Development Authority was created in 2019 to bridge gaps, especially around funding for housing and infrastructure. It can support a wide range of projects, from wastewater and transportation to downtown redevelopment. David Kooris, who leads the authority, described it as a carrots system, but noted that sometimes the carrot can also be used as a stick (or as he described, a “frozen carrot”). He also pushed back on the common complaint that state action takes away local control, calling it a myth. In his view, stronger partnerships actually expand what local governments are able to accomplish.
Across these states, the theme was clear. Subsidized housing alone will not solve the problem, and there is no single fix. Instead, states are using a portfolio of tools: zoning reforms, infrastructure funding, training, and impact fees to make sure developers help cover the cost of new growth. Rhode Island was noted as a positive example for requiring third-party reviews, which reduces the chance of corruption, but also as a cautionary case since reluctance to expand wastewater infrastructure has slowed housing development.
Energy: Utility Bills and Grid Investment
by Olivia Discon
The session on energy tackled another issue with both technical and political challenges: how to keep power reliable and affordable while demand keeps growing. The speakers were Rep. Chris Rabb from Pennsylvania, Asim Haque from PJM Interconnection, and Michael Downey and Sonia Griffen from the Energy Futures Initiative Foundation.
Haque explained how PJM works. It does not own any power plants or transmission lines, but instead manages the flow of electricity across multiple states, coordinating reliability, market operations, and regional planning. Reliability is the constant concern. One reason is the surge in data centers, which consume the equivalent of tens of thousands of homes each. Add to that residential growth, new manufacturing, and federal environmental rules, and the grid faces a supply and demand imbalance. Coal has largely been replaced by natural gas and nuclear, and renewables are growing quickly, but integrating them without disrupting the system is a challenge.
Downey and Griffen argued that the grid will need trillions of dollars in new transmission investment over the coming decades. The federal government cannot cover those costs alone, so policymakers will have to create the right financing structures to attract private capital. They also emphasized that building high-voltage regional transmission lines is far more cost effective than simply adding more low-voltage local lines. Texas was cited as an example of a state that invested heavily in transmission in the early 2000s and is now benefiting from it. Best practices include planning 20 years into the future, updating plans every five years, setting clear cost-allocation rules, and communicating transparently so that the public understands the value of new projects.
Rep. Rabb brought the political dimension into focus. Pennsylvania is one of the nation’s largest energy producers but does not have a strong legislative framework for energy policy. He has called for a standing committee in the House dedicated to energy and has introduced a short, two-page bill that would require utilities to explain how their votes within PJM benefit ratepayers. While simple, the bill has attracted bipartisan interest because it emphasizes accountability and transparency in a system that often feels opaque. Rabb noted that skepticism about utility rates and decision-making is widespread, and greater visibility into those processes could help rebuild trust.
The session made clear that rising demand from data centers and industry is not going away, and that reliability will require proactive investment in transmission. At the same time, policymakers are grappling with how to ensure that utilities and grid operators are accountable to the public.
Capitol Clam-Bake
With a long day of work and learning behind us, we headed to the beautiful Rhode Island State House…
…to enjoy an evening of food, music, and mixing. The staff of the CSG put together a feast for four hundred–with clams, mussels, lobsters…
…bread, cheeses, fruit, and corn.
Oh, and hot dogs for the kiddos.
After some time, we got our plates together…
…we sat back to listen to the music.
The music was performed by young adults, a group of recent Brown graduates who prefer to sing the music of old adults. Indeed, they were originally a Beach Boys Tribute Band, and they have recently branched out to other 60s-70s groups such as the Mamas and the Papas, the Beatles, The Four Tops, and others.
They were a spirited group and, at their best, had very nice harmonies.
They also had a great attitude, and their enthusiasm spilled into the crowd, who responded well to the music. Judging by crowd reaction, the favorite of the evening was Neil Diamond’s “Sweet Caroline,” which elicited much clapping, singing, and some dancing.
In these partisan times, it was good to see the Democrats and the (few) Republicans come together and bond over music.
Bipartisanship was also the theme of the night from the elected officials, who did a good job of being gracious and brief.
Senator Elgie Sims (Illinois) was particularly gracious in reminding legislators of the importance of civility–particularly in light of the shooting of Representative Melissa Hortman and her husband Mark Hortman and Senator John Hoffman and his wife, Yvette Hoffman.
It was a unifying way to end the remarks, and it is a good lesson for all to remember.
Concluding Thoughts
It’s not often that you can learn lessons in three separate towns in the same day. It’s even less often you can learn from a stop at Dunkin’ Donuts. But LEAP Ambassadors, with their resourcefulness (and love of coffee), found a way to learn in myriad ways, from diverse places, and from the generosity of policy experts who came together to share their knowledge.
After arriving in Boston early Friday morning, LEAP officially kicked off our visit to New England! We’re here for the Council of State Governments East conference, but like any LEAP trip, we make time to absorb the cultural and intellectual atmosphere of the region.
Massachusetts State House
by Olivia Discon
Even as we approached the building, we noticed the gold dome, and we used that as a guidepost for directions to the structure. The dome, as we would later learn, was originally covered with wood shingles, but as they deteriorated, the government opted for a sturdier material. They chose Paul Revere to plate the dome, but as it weathered and turned green, another element was sought. They settled on 23-karat gold, which is, of course, distinctly different. Interestingly, the original gilding cost $3,000 (in 1872); but they expect to cost approximately 3,000,000 dollars to refurbish it today.
We learned all this from Luke, our tour guide, who gave us a great overview of the building, which was designed by Charles Bullfinch, who also designed the Maine Statehouse, University Hall at Harvard, and the updating of the US Capitol.
A highlight was the beautiful rotunda, which featured stained-glass windows and murals depicting scenes from the founding of the country. The room was built with imported Italian stone and craftsmanship, reflecting the influence of Massachusetts’ large Italian immigrant population.
From there, we entered the Great Hall of Flags, which displays 351 flags, one from each municipality in Massachusetts. The design wasn’t just symbolic, though; the flags also help improve the room’s acoustics, making it suitable for ceremonies and events.
Having seen 12 state capitol buildings, I’ve learned that the legislative chambers are often the most interesting aspects of the statehouses. In Massachusetts, the House of Representatives has 160 members, each serving two-year terms. In and of itself, this is not unusual. What is unusual is this one features a fish: a cod. The cod is such a central symbol of Massachusetts’ maritime roots that the chamber refuses to conduct business without it, although that didn’t stop Harvard students from stealing it in 1933, stopping legislative business for three days, before it miraculously returned. The sculpture is today so valued, it is known as the “Sacred Cod.”
Across the building, the State Senate chamber is home to 40 senators, also elected for two-year terms and representing roughly 175,000 people each. Their chamber is arranged in a round-table style, designed to encourage equal discussion, which is of course different from the tiered seating most state legislatures use. Indeed, Massachusetts takes this to great lengths. To ensure full equality, they actually change the heights of each chair around the table in a manner designed to ensure that each member is of equal stature while literally and figuratively occupying a Senate seat.
And because the House wouldn’t share the Sacred Cod, the Senate decided they would have their own divine creature: the “Holy Mackerel.”
In all, this visit to the Old State House was a great way to kick off the trip. It was the perfect precursor to the rest of the day and almost certainly to our time in New England.
Freedom Trail
by Michelle Moya
While the Massachusetts’ State House can serve as a standalone site, it is also part of Boston’s official Freedom Trail, a 2.5-mile path (fully paved with red bricks) that winds through downtown and connects 16 historically significant sites. The trail proved to be the perfect introduction to the city–part history lesson, part sightseeing tour–allowing us to stand where many of the pivotal moments in America’s fight for independence unfolded.
In most states, a capitol built in 1798 would be the old state house but not in Massachusetts. The Bay State’s “Old State House” was built in 1713 and is Boston’s oldest surviving public building. Its Georgian architecture stands in stark contrast to the towering skyscrapers surrounding it. For decades, it served as the seat of the Massachusetts General Court and a symbol of royal power in the colony. But it also became a birthplace of revolution: on July 18, 1776, the Declaration of Independence was read aloud from its balcony for the first time to the citizens of Boston, transforming this seat of British authority into a herald of American freedom.
Just steps away lies the Boston Massacre Site, marked today by a simple ring of cobblestones. Modest as the marker may be, this spot witnessed a tragedy that would galvanize the colonies. On March 5, 1770, angry Bostonians clashed with British troops stationed in the city. What began with snowballs, sticks, and insults escalated when confusion gave way to gunfire. Private Hugh Montgomery, knocked down by the crowd, fired his musket, and others followed suit. Amid escalating tension, five colonists were killed: Crispus Attucks, Samuel Gray, James Caldwell, Samuel Maverick, and Patrick Carr.
The consequences of that night are poignantly reflected at the Granary Burying Ground, established in 1660 and one of Boston’s three-oldest cemeteries.
Though only about 2,300 headstones remain visible, nearly 5,000 people are believed to be buried in this hallowed ground, including some of the Revolution’s most illustrious figures such as Paul Revere, Samuel Adams and John Hancock, and among these is one of the five victims of the Boston Massacre, Crispus Attucks. Of African and Native American descent, Attucks was a sailor and dockworker who stood at the front of the crowd that evening. His death marked not just the beginning of America’s struggle for independence but also highlighted the diverse coalition of people who would sacrifice for that cause.
A few blocks away, the trail leads us to the Paul Revere House, built around 1680 and now the oldest surviving home in downtown Boston. Modest in size and structure, the weathered wooden dwelling still fits in among the varied architectural buildings of modern-day Boston. Revere lived here from 1770 to 1800, balancing his work as a silversmith with his pivotal role in the Patriot cause, including his famous midnight ride that would become the stuff of legend.
The Freedom Trail offered a concise, firsthand look at Boston’s role in the nation’s founding. The trail provides both residents and visitors a clear window into the events and figures that shaped early America, making it a must-see for anyone looking to understand Boston’s historical significance and, for us, a great start to exploring a new city.
Lunch and Larks
Befitting our historic tour, we had lunch at the Union Oyster House, which opened in 1826, making it the United States’ oldest restaurant. The building in which it is housed dates back even further–at least 250 years, although no firm date has been established. In addition to some Boston staples (New England Clam Chowder, oysters, Boston Cream Pie)–which we enjoyed–the restaurant has also hosted many notable public figures. Daniel Webster was a regular customer as was John F. Kennedy. Indeed, Kennedy had the Oyster House’s Clam Chowder shipped in for his inauguration.
We also plotted out paths to some sites we wanted to see that didn’t fit a themed route. This included the remnants of a partially obscured Richard Haas mural at 31 Milk Street, which someone, inexplicably, decided should be covered up by a parking garage. For a city that cares about its history–or for any city–it was an unfortunate decision.
Also of interest to us was Ten Post Office Square, which was originally home to the Boston Latin School (1635), the oldest public school in the United States. Luminaries such as John Hancock, Samuel Adams, Cotton Mather, and Benjamin Franklin attended here. Franklin, however, dropped out, a fact which partially prompted city fathers to erect a statue of him on the site in 1865, the first such public statue in the city of Boston. The site was also been home to the Suffolk County Courthouse and, in 1865, the City built a new Town Hall on the site. It is the structure that occupies the location today, a building that provided office space for 38 separate mayors, including John Fitzgerald–the future President’s grandfather.
Boston Museum of Art
After a packed first day in Boston, we headed to the Museum of Fine Arts to see “Van Gogh: The Roulin Family Portraits”- the MFA’s first Van Gogh exhibition in 25 years. With 23 works on display, many borrowed from all over the country, this represents the largest collection of Van Gogh’s work currently showing in the United States.
The exhibition focuses on Van Gogh’s 26 portraits of the Roulin family-his neighbors in Arles, France. Fourteen of these paintings are displayed together here, something that rarely happens given how scattered they are across museums worldwide.
Joseph Roulin, a local postman, appears in several portraits wearing his postal uniform…
His wife Augustine dominates the “La Berceuse” series, where Van Gogh painted her as a maternal figure meant to comfort sailors and working people.
Their three children each get distinct personalities: Armand with his serious expression,
young Camille caught between childhood and adolescence,
and baby Marcelle with tender vulnerability.
The exhibition also includes other works from Van Gogh’s productive Arles period. The Bedroom immediately caught my attention, given its bold, simplified colors.
Alongside these, Van Gogh’s Self-Portrait from this period shows the artist at his most direct, painted just months after his breakdown in Arles…
The curators also included works by artists who influenced Van Gogh, including pieces by Rembrandt, creating a clear artistic lineage that shaped his approach to portraiture.
The exhibition ends with Van Gogh’s actual letters, written during his mental health struggles in Arles.
Continuing On!
By Olivia Discon
From there, we wandered through the rest of the museum, trying to take in as much as we could before the end of day one.
Michelle is still figuring out her taste in art, so this visit was a great chance to see a wide range of styles and time periods all in one place.
In the American Art collection, we started in a way that mirrored the country’s own development. Early American painters leaned heavily on European influences, but as we moved forward, you could see the work gradually step into a style of its own.
Moya has grown fond of the transcendentalist crowd—Heade, Thomas Cole, and Bierstadt especially.
For me, highlights included John Singer Sargent, Childe Hassam, and Rodin.
We also stumbled on an Andy Warhol that needed a little context. After I explained the, let’s say, “golden phase” of his work, Michelle was no closer to being a Warhol fan.
There was also an impressive lineup of Monets, including one from his cathedral series. That 33-painting project captures the same cathedral at different times of day. This is pivotal to art history, and I was pleased to have seen one of them in person.
And then came Degas’ Little Dancer. One of the 28 bronze casts, it’s indeed an incredible piece. However, if you’d rather not become disillusioned with another art piece in this blog, you probably shouldn’t ask me the backstory on this one.
On our way out, we caught sight of some Alexander Calder pieces! The wooden sculpture was particularly striking to me, and an excellent find on our way out of the museum.
Concluding Thoughts
It was such a busy day, it was easy to forget that we woke up in Houston, Texas, and spent only a partial day in Boston, MA. Nonetheless, we managed to spend a full twelve hours seeing sites, exploring a part of the country that is new to us, and reflecting anew on our nation’s history and the meaning of freedom.
In previous posts, we’ve discussed the philosophy of the LEAP Center, as well as some of the foundational programs we offer. The Center also actively identifies students with the potential for leadership and provides additional opportunities for the development of those leadership skills.
As noted previously, our programs bring us into contact with more than 2,500 students annually. Moreover, we generally eschew “bribing” students with extra credit or compelling them to participate as a class requirement. Rather, we encourage students to participate in extra-curricular activities by highlighting their value, illuminating their relevance, and by offering programs that are inherently rewarding—and then allowing them to choose whether to participate.
This approach to civic engagement has several positive outcomes.
Because these activities are related to—and in addition to—the regular class curriculum, there is no curricular displacement. That is, the students engaged in civic activities are not losing out on the traditional reading, writing, classroom discussions, and assessments to make “room” for additional mandatory requirements.
Our events are voluntary; thus, the students who participate are, on average, more motivated and skilled in planning than the students who would participate only when compelled.
Because we are involved extensively in planning the programs the students participate in, we can ensure they are high quality. The students, then, are rewarded for their initiative, their planning, and their participation.
We participate in or oversee all the events we facilitate, allowing us a unique perspective to assess the potential of the students.
Fortunately, we also offer myriad programs for emerging leaders. These include:
Community Programs: Although aimed at community members, students may also apply to programs we offer such as City U, County U, heART of Huntsville, Citizenship Preparatory Course, and Beyond Bars. Such programs not only teach students key facts, processes, and skills related to civics, it also allows them to mix with community leaders, and therefore expand their professional networks;
City Fellows Internship Program: The LEAP Center offers paid internships each semester, and these internships differ in important ways from traditional internships. First, our internships are project based. Students are not just asked to help staff complete office tasks. Rather, staff develop projects they need assistance with, and these projects become the selected interns’ primary duties.
Sam Houston Austin Internship Program: Every legislative session, the LEAP Center oversees selection of 6-12 Austin Interns, who work in legislative offices of professional associations. These students work full-time, and they are treated as staff or legislative assistants in the offices.
Moot Court & College Bowl Teams: The LEAP Center supervises the Moot Court team and the College Bowl team. In the former, students learn the fine arts of oral arguments, traveling to law schools and engaging in tournaments in front of lawyers and law-school personnel. In the latter, students learn about city government and public administration, and they travel to conferences, where they compete in front of city personnel and graduate faculty.
Many students are interested in specific areas. Thus, students who excel in city internships might take leadership roles on the College Bowl Team. Students who excel in Moot Court might take leadership roles in the Pre-Law Society.
Some students will show more diverse interests and exceptional promise, and these students are invited to be Ambassadors for the Center for Law, Engagement, And Politics. In addition to often taking leadership positions with the Pre-Law Society or the College Bowl teams, these students often help the LEAP Center carry out its basic functions (the LEAP Center only has two staff members).
Thus, Ambassadors assist with all volunteer activities; they lead the planning and execution of all events; they oversee and implement the LEAP Center’s social media; they meet with, advise, and sometimes tutor students in criminal justice, political science, and pre-law. They guest lecture for classes, serve as liaisons for many community non-profits and government agencies, and they help host the programs run by the LEAP Center.
The amount of work done by the LEAP Ambassadors is extensive, and it involves rigorous work and the development of professional skills. Accordingly, only the highest-level students become LEAP Ambassadors. Over the past year, for example, the LEAP Ambassadors worked, on average, 21 hours per week at part-time jobs or internships, participated in more than 100 events, and carried a GPA of 3.76.
Collectively, this approach and these activities lead to far-reaching and positive outcomes. Sam Houston State University, for example, is one of the 170 most successful four-year, higher-education institutions in North America at placing students in law schools—putting it firmly in the top three percent. In addition, many of these students have gone on to very successful legal careers, especially in Texas.
Many of the students who have obtained internships through the LEAP Center have become governmental leaders, holding down management and director-level positions in city, county, and state government. The creation of the Sam Houston Austin Internship Program, for example, increased the number of full-time, SHSU-affiliated staff four-fold since its inception in 2013.
The LEAP Ambassadors, the most successful of the bunch, have gone beyond career success by also becoming avid supporters of SHSU. Although seventy-five percent of the Ambassadors were first-generation students, they have enthusiastically supported the University by speaking to campus groups, serving on Alumni boards, and donating to the University.
In short, the programs offered by the LEAP Center go beyond curriculum enhancement. They are designed organically to meet real needs of our students—while being geared to the abilities of our students. Moreover, the rigor of the programs prepare students for real-world occupations, graduate programs, and the demands of civic life. And by offering opportunities, training, and a picture of what is possible, the LEAP Center serves as an incubator for leaders.
Center for Law, Engagement, and Politics 
,_Pittsfield,_Massachusetts.JPG){kind=link}